martix812825

[martix812825]

tcmeyer wrote:

martix812825: The photo suggests that the serrations are single-sided. This means that you’ll be removing a lot more steel than usual. Do you intend to also re-profile the part of the blade behind the serrations? I recently did one very similar to this. I had picked up a set of old steak knives from a local thrift shop, hoping to completely redo them. Here’s a couple of points which will speed up the process for you: Before even starting the bevels, file the serrated edge flat using a medium-grit stone, until there is no evidence of the serrations remaining along the centerline of what will become the edge. This is steel that must be removed anyway and filing it off is much, much faster than honing it off with the bevels. Then proceed to form the bevels with a relatively coarse grit, watching your progress carefully to avoid cutting in to the centerline. When you’ve come as close to the centerline as you dare, switch to the finer grits. My 400-grit stones are my go-to stones for this next step. Good luck!

hi tcmeyer, yes my first idea is remove all the serrations,  i feel a bit waste even i bought this knife from IKEA at $0.99 but the serrations is quite sharp.

i need some knife to practice before re-profile my cold steel recon 1 tanto so i think i’ll re-profile the $0.99 knife anyway.

thanks for the tip, i thought the progress will be honing with the whole bevels, thank you for sharing your experience !

and my gloves just arrived yesterday, they said these gloves have fifth-grade of cut resistance, i’m not really sure about that but at least it passed my utility knife cutting test. for me i would like to feel the pressure without any gloves when i’m sharpening, but in this moment, still getting used to sharpening with WE system.

 

[martix812825]

Organic wrote:

martix812825 wrote:

thanks Mark and Organic for the remind, i think i better save my strops after the stones break-in. And i just placed a new order to try out the lapping film and the others : 50/80 grit diamond stone low angle adapter with 10″ guide rods 6/3/1.5/1/0.5 lapping film each blank glass handles pack X2 (one pack for 3/1.5 film , one pack for 1/0.5 film) and the 1500 grits stone with glass platens (with 6 micron film) i really want to see the result of strops vs lapping film and hows it pass the HHT test

That meme is hilarious! There’s no problem using the strops before your diamond plates have been broken in, just don’t expect mirrored edges until you’ve sharpened 10-15 knives with the diamond stones. The strops will still help increase the sharpness even if the edge doesn’t become mirrored after using them.

just tried again with stropping.

i can feel the sharpness increase just like a straight razor and i keep use my legs hair to test the sharpness.

now my butter knife can be a straight razor for daily use !

then i start to notice one of the difference between them, is polishing, it feels more comfortable and smooth when it shaves.

so i guess mirror polish is not just for show-off, it’ll improve in some way.

The photo below is the next testing object, that’s why i ordered 50/80 stones to remove those teeth.

 

 

that’s a lot of metal need to remove. wondering if i start with 18 degrees at first, after i remove the teeth, the angle will be much more then 18(maybe 19?), so i guess i should keep checking the angle and adjust it when i’m removing the teeth ?

 

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Mark76

[martix812825]

Marc H wrote:

I think a little bacitracin and a Band-Aid and you live to sharpen another day. I use “Safety Shields” always. But in your case I think you may need to re-organize your knife sharpening station so you don’t have to reach across a clamped knife for anything! I only have an overhead lamp straight in front of the knife and vice. Everything else is placed off to the sides so I always have to reach around the knife, not over it. Also I got into the habit of throwing a folded towel over the clamped knife as soon as I set down the stones. And always keep the clamped knife covered, with the towel, when ever I get up from my sharpening station.

yes i don’t have enough place to be my sharpening station, that’s why i didn’t order any stone base.i think i need to solve this problem soon or later.

and that’s a good idea to cover with a towel. if i slip near by the clamped knife next time….

[martix812825]

tcmeyer wrote:

That’s a nasty chunk of missing flesh – and located right where the joint flexes a lot.  It’s going to take  long time to heal.  You might want to put a splint on it until the tissue starts to fill in.   I would go to a hand specialist to get the best course of treatment.  If you’re right-handed, that’s probably your most important finger. I’ll make a long term prediction here – when you get into your fifties, that joint will become arthritic.  I’ve got one just like it, but the injury was to the pad of the index finger.  At one point, I actually considered having it amputated, but eventually the arthritic pain subsided.  Now, at age 72.8, almost all of my fingers have some arthritis in them, but twenty years ago it was only those joints which had some injury in their history.

wow that’s quite serious problem, i never thought it’ll be effect much after. i still can’t bend that finger right now otherwise the wound will rip off  again

[martix812825]

thanks Mark and Organic for the remind, i think i better save my strops after the stones break-in.

And i just placed a new order to try out the lapping film and the others :

50/80 grit diamond stone

low angle adapter with 10″ guide rods

6/3/1.5/1/0.5 lapping film each

blank glass handles pack X2  (one pack for 3/1.5 film , one pack for 1/0.5 film)

and the 1500 grits stone with glass platens (with 6 micron film)

i really want to see the result of strops vs lapping film and hows it pass the HHT test

 

 

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[martix812825]

Organic wrote:

I think you’ll see more mirroring with that progression after the stones break in. The stones leave very deep scratches when new and that makes a mirrored finish much more difficult to attain. The 3 micron film may be an appropriate next grit, but you should experiment and try the 6 micron film as well. You may be interested in the safety shields that Wicked Edge sells. Stay safe!

Thanks for the tips, seems i can DIY the shields myself also~~

but is there any reasons why going backward from 1600 ceramic(2.85 micron) to 6 micron film ?

[martix812825]

indeed,Marc. finding the best combination of narrow and durable takes time and practice, but the progress is fun for me(maybe also for peoples in here i guess )

It reminds me long time ago when i had a working holiday visa in Australia, i got a kitchen factory jobs and cut out the bones of chicken thigh / drumstick everyday and i worked in there around 3 months.

i worked in a night shift, the salary is base on quantities, so everyone is rush,well time is money~!

around 13-15 mins i can finish 100 pieces of chicken thigh, so you can imagine if the knifes get dull, i’ll have a tough night

i didn’t shoot the photos below but is the same knife / temporarily knife sharpener to do a quick slice sharpening:

 

 

in that period i have to sharpen my knife / remove the cracked edge before i go to work, i still remember the finest stones i can get in the town is something like 120#/300# oil stones, something like this, is an unforgettable moments for me lol~

 

 

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Mark76

[martix812825]

Marc H wrote:

Mark76 wrote:

MarcH wrote:

Martix, buy your wife a very nice, good Kitchen knife. Then you’ll need the Wicked Edge to keep it sharp.

. That’s what I did. It worked pretty well. Then again, she is usually our home cook and really loves cooking.

After she experiences the difference between a Wicked Edge sharply maintained knife and a dull one she should be just fine with your sharpening tool.

umm~~~sounds nice, my wife loves cooking as well.

last time i use edge pro to sharpened a general kitchen knife into V-shape, maybe the angle is too low / material of that knife is good enough / need a double bevel, after a day of use she found out a little piece of metal</span> broken on the edge, looks like a good reason to get a better knife for her.

[martix812825]

Hi tcmeyer, thanks for sharing the knowledge, specially edge-leading part, let me do more homework about it.

And yes Marc, actually i ordered  the angle meter and just arrived today, i’ll try out when the WE systems arrived (i guess will be mid of September)

 

seems the biggest problems that i’m facing, is how to explain it to my wife for spending so much money in new sharpening stuffs…

 

 

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Mark76

[martix812825]

Thanks Organic and Marc.

i own an apex pro edge sharpener and few of the whetstones.When i use 5000 grits and 8000 grits whetstones or even the apex pro, feels like rounding the edge, not fine tuning it. of course probably is the angle I’m not holding it right and I’m tired to use the clamp to hold the knife -> release the clamp-> flip over to the other side and again and again.so it makes me wonder is the stroke direction not correct or something.

[martix812825]

Mark76 wrote:

I think you made an excellent choice. The 1600/1200 stones work very well, they’re just a little slower than the diamond stones. I use them a lot after the 1000 grit diamond stones. As Marc said, they do need some time to break in, as all stones do.

In my first idea, the 1600/1200 stones is the last steps for some knifes which don’t need a fine mirror polish.such as some daily use kitchen knife~~

but do i have to stroke them like the lapping film,always going up ?

 

[martix812825]

thanks Marc to confirming that~:)

[martix812825]

thanks guys ! 🙂

here’s the stones i ordered ~ but seems the 1200/1600 ceramic stones is not a highly recommended in here

 

 WE120 – 2016 Model

 Extra Fine 800 Grit / Ultra Fine 1000 Grit Diamond Stones Pack

Super Fine 1200 / 1600 Grit Ceramic Stones Pack

1/0.5 Micron Diamond and Leather Strops Pack

 

 

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