Kenneth Krone

[Kenneth Krone]

Thanks for the reminder! That would be an expensive price to pay!

[Kenneth Krone]

Thanks, Clay and Josh. I did not know the height above the clamp at which the angle was calculated–that is most helpful to know.

Love the system, Clay. I have used it for a number of years for my kitchen knives and it is a real treat to so easily keep them sharp.

[Kenneth Krone]

So, basically what I understand from what you have written, it is like a compound blade, with two angles, say 10* along the shoulder (back bevel) and 16* for the edge. Sounds like I need to purchase the extension gizmo. Thanks

[Kenneth Krone]

Thanks for the explanation. I think I understand (the image is difficult to read, even when magnified, but the illustration is clear). Over time, the width between the shoulders becomes wider as more and more steel is removed by the sharpening process. I have a cheese knife that is uniform from edge to spine, and I understand why that is the case with regard to cutting through cheese. The question that I have is how does one determine when to thin the edge (shoulder) without taking micrometer readings and recording them, and how is it done well by the home cook without resorting to a grinder and running the risk of screwing up the knife? I can see that one way to thin it would be to use a lesser angle for the shoulder, say perhaps 10 degrees (I don’t know what angle would be recommended but that is apparently the lowest angle that can be achieved by the small angle adapter), presumably by using the Wicked Edge Small Angle adapter extension gizmo for the Wicked Edge while keeping the blade angle at 16*. Clearly the geometry changes over time depending on how often a blade is sharpened and how much material is removed.

[Kenneth Krone]

Thanks, Leo and KnifeNerd. If I understand you correctly, then Leo, I am fine. I decided to go to a 16 degree angle on two knives and the edge bevel is only about 1 mm or so, so I am far away from the Damascus pattern. I do not have a low angle vice and hope to not have to purchase one for a while. We do take quite good care of our knives, and now that our kids have been out of the houe for years, I find that I don’t have to sharpen the knives as much as I used to…!

Thanks again for all of the help and support,
Ken K

[Kenneth Krone]

Again, thank you very much. Yes, I am only removing the sharpie at the apex–about 1 1.5mm. There is another 2-3 mm before the steel changes to the Damascus pattern. I will re-do the edge at 16 degrees, then, if that is what they are from the factory. I must have mis-informed myself along the way about it being 17 degrees. Thanks for the info and the help!

Ken K

[Kenneth Krone]

Thanks for the answer! What you say makes perfect sense, and what I did after I posted the question was to work on the heel and the section just behind the tip, as you had then said.

While I have your attention, I have done the marking pen on the edge thing and find that I am only sharpening about 1 1/2 millimeters, not the entire 3+ millimeters of the bevel. It seems to work for me–I am sharpening my Shun and Tojiro kitchen knives at 17 degrees. Am I not doing it correctly?

Thanks

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