Jon
@jond
active 4 years agoForum Replies Created
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Thanks again for your reply Marc. I have been starting with the 100/ 200 because I have been re-profiling to a new (lower) dps but I think you are right about a) the stones not being broken in and b) leaving myself with deep scratches because of too much time on the 100/200 grit stone.
I just got done turning my Benchmade Bailout from a Tanto (not a fan of Tanto’s) to a drop point using my Worksharp with blade grinding attachment and I am very happy with how it turned out. I could not believe how long it took to draw a burr on the section I modified though- M4 steel is tough! After I got rid of the Tanto I went to work re-profiling to 15dps. Now I am going to set it up in the WE 130 and see how far we can go. Your tips will no doubt save me alot of time. Thanks again! -Jon
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Wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a thoughtful and helpful reply! Your information re: the LAA explains what I was seeing perfectly and I am going to try your alternating side technique which sounds like it will get me the even bevels I am after.
One other thing I am curious about is grit progression in order to get a polished edge. I can’t say I care too much about a mirror edge, but I did attempt one last night for fun and didn’t get too close. Last night I tried this: 100/200 > 400/600 > 800/1000 > 1500 > 2000/3000 > 3 micron lapping film > 1 micron lapping film. Is a mirror edge possible with this progression and does it just take more time, or am I missing a step?
Thanks again for your help Marc! BTW- although the bevels on my Boker Urban Trapper are not even, I was able to get a great edge on the knife!IMG_3041
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