James

An alternate method would be to place a shim of sorts between the knife handle and the Tormek holder on the right side of the knife handle in order to shift the knife blade back to the left as the holder centers the widened handle.  A wooden paint stirring stick might work well for the shim.

Edge leading strokes are done by bringing the stones down and onto, or down and against the knife edge.  Apex down to bevel shoulder.

Edge trailing strokes are done by raising the stones up and then off the knife edge, or up and away.  Bevel shoulder up to the apex then off the edge.

Both of these strokes, edge leading, and edge trailing st…[Read more]

Here’s an earlier forum thread for the same Maximet steel in a Spyderco Model knife.  It may help you to read it.

Spyderco Native – Maxamet – Wicked Edge Precision Knife Sharpener (wickededgeusa.com)

I recommend you should always start with wide angles.  This creates a short height bevel.  The sharpness is a factor of how smooth the bevels are and how closely and precisely the two bevels intersect, the keeness. Edge keeness translates to sharpness.  Sheffield steel is high carbon steel.  It can get very sharp but it’s not a particularly har…[Read more]

Timm, before you can sharpen a narrow or short height knife like this one you first have to find a secure method to clamp it in the W.E. vise.  Otherwise, your sharpening stones will contact the vise and not allow the stones to reach the apex.

Here is a W.E. video dealing with this issue with a couple…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. Forum Iceshiver.  There are so many different grinds in knives, in general.  In Japanese knives that’s taken even further with all the specialized artisan knife styles and grinds. It’d be very difficult to address all the different knives in the FAQs. Once you learn how to sharpen knives, in general, with your W.E. and you d…[Read more]

Timm, welcome to the WE Forum.  Congratulations on your first success.

Just so you know it generally takes about 10 knives worth of sharpening for the stones to first get broken-in and yield better and more consistent sharpening results.  The finer the grits lessss wear is required to break them in.

I suggest you may want to try to balance out y…[Read more]

The list is no longer is accessible to WE forum members.

Eric, you are on the track.  I commend your efforts.  It’s clear to me that you’re figuring this out exemplified by the questions you’re asking and your experiences and observations you’re sharing.

The W.E.P.S. are hand tools.  We are first grinding away knife edge steel with the coarser grit diamond stones then eventually polishing up the sa…[Read more]

Eric, I didn’t realize you’ve already used your stones with 25 knives.  I would expect that would be enough knives to break in your stones well.  Possibly your rough blade results may simply be that you hadn’t apexed the knife edges, evidenced by a noticeable burr,  or you didn’t sharpen the knives long enough or with a correct te…[Read more]

To try to explain in simple terms, the Wicked Edge sharpeners are simple bench vises designed to clamp our knives stationary and securely, edge up. This allow us to work both sides of the knives simultaneously without the need to hold the knife.  We sharpen our knives by removing steel from the knife sides and up to the knife edge, the apex, at…[Read more]

Sounds like you’re on your way.  The knives are getting clamped in the “sweet spot”.

The WE100 model in the Pro Pack 1 is the most affordable, economical model but it offers the least adjustability for angle setting precision and less ease of use.  Each of the angle positioning indents I believe are 1/2º apart.  So, when trying to match an exi…[Read more]

We’re glad to have you here to be a part of it. Welcome Randy Phillips

Tattooman, welcome.  First,  which model sharpener are you using?

You may want to try using a red or blue colored Sharpie.  Black ink is not as easy to see as the colors.

First, before you can try to determine the existing bevel angles you are trying to find the best clamping position for efficient sharpening.   This is called “the sweet spot…[Read more]

I just completed this new “Narrow” format Step Tier Model for new forum member James.  This is the first model in the new “Narrow Series” I have completed.  The new “Narrow Series” have slightly closer post spacing than the “Standard Series Rack-Its”.  They’re intended to be used where whetstones will not be considered, and sharpening workspace ma…[Read more]

I have just added a new Rack-It design to my “Modular Design Series”.  This Rack-It is the Flat Tabletop Expandable Model.  I have incorporated the modular post rung concept from the Step Tiered Model with the aluminum side supports to offer this new style Rack-It system:

These Rack-Its can be made is various configuration for post quantities a…[Read more]

Private Message sent to you.

Welcome to the W.E. Forum, srenovo.

Click airscapes .  This will refer you to the the forum private messaging feature. Click the orange “Private Message” button to compose a message for “airscapes”.  Include your email address.  He’ll respond.

Some do sharpen to 600 grit as a finished knife.

Yes, the 50/80 is aggressive but it has it’s place.  Being as coarse as it is it requires a pretty good break in period.  You may want to break it in on a piece of flat bar steel. You can pick up a length at Home Depot.  Just cut a suitable length off with a hacksaw.  If it’s causing alot of dam…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. Forum JackStraw.

Give yourself some time.  Consistent, predictable sharp results using your WEPS takes time and lots of practice.  Even after I thought I knew what I was doing since I was producing nicely sharpened knife edges, I saw my results continue to improve.  As I sharpened more for years after that, my edges im…[Read more]