000Robert

I googled it. It seems that the sheepsfoot blade is for cutting and slicing while minimizing the chances of anything being accidently pierced by the blade. I guess I was wrong.

I scrub up/down till I get the sides even, and then start working on the burrs.

Yeah, just check the surfaces for burrs and stuff and sand them smooth using a hard flat surface. That might take care of the problem. Like I said, I’m so used to doing it that I don’t give it a second thought. I sanded the surfaces of the screw tips, tightener wheels, and L-brackets as soon as I opened the box and didn’t think twice about…[Read more]

Check the ends of the screws and see if they have burrs on them or something, or maybe they are not very round. Take some emery cloth and smooth them up. I don’t know how many times I have had to do that with screw ends on all kinds of stuff. It’s so bad that any time I buy something that uses screws like that, sanding them good is the first…[Read more]

I cover my ball joints. I always wear a N95 face mask when sharpening knives. And I only use soap and water when I am reprofiling a blade or using the first stone during sharpening. I don’t use washers or magnets, I just vacuum the vise every now and then. But I tape up my vise with painters blue tape to help keep trash out of the inner workings…[Read more]

My take on it is, why take a chance? It’s not that big of a problem to wear a N95 mask while sharpening knives. Better safe than sorry…

Here it is: LAA

Or just click on, “accessories”, above.

I don’t see what is so difficult about using warm water, dish soap, and a scrub brush. I also use round brushes to clean the guide rod holes out with. Piece of cake. It is a lot easier for me to clean them the prescribed way than to use my UC.

I heard that they called it a sheepsfoot blade because it is shaped like a sheep’s foot. It is good for cleaning horse hooves if I remember right.

I put a toothy 800 or 1000 grit edge on all of my blades unless I plan on collecting them. I decided to collect my Boker Plus 74 Kalashnikov Damascus Auto, so I put mirrored edges on it as best as I could with what was included in my Pro Pack III.

My Buck 301 Stockman has a sheepsfoot blade instead of a wharncliffe.

I don’t remember what the angle was on the 301, probably around 15dps. I don’t keep track of pocket knife angles – I just find the angle and sharpen them to what they are and don’t worry about it.

It’s quicker and easier for me to just sharpen the spey blades by hand.

I have a WE130 with the LAA and the only blade that I have a problem with on pocket knives is the spey blade. So I sharpen them by hand. Here is a photo where I have the sheepsfoot blade of my Buck 301 clamped up.

Yes, gently.

That’s pretty much what I was thinking.

My apologies Kyle, that’s pretty fast! I guess I’m just an old fogey. Setting the edge is quick work with that Gen 3!

I didn’t say that I “did” charge that much, I said that I “would” charge that much if I wanted to sharpen knives for money. But I don’t want to sharpen knives for money – that’s the point. 😉

I wouldn’t sharpen that fast anyways…[Read more]

I agree. Most of the time the 50/80 stones are not needed. But they would be nice to have when you do need them. They will keep me from prematurely wearing my 100 grit stones out.

I just hope you guys don’t get hurt. Try to be Bruce Lee sharpening knives is a tragedy in the making.

It depends on what you want. For most knives I use Break Free CLP. If you are using a knife for food then mineral oil would be safe. If you want an oil that is non-toxic, many people recommend ALG Defense Go-Juice. I don’t think it’s food safe. It is mainly for firearms but I would imagine that it would be good for knives as well. They also have…[Read more]