000Robert

I’ll post my findings here on the forum. I need to acquire some test knives first. But I don’t want to buy them from individuals and take the chance of the heat treat of the steel being damaged somehow. I’ll probably be looking into some in the next few weeks with different steels. It might take a few months to really get started if I have to…[Read more]

I saw a thread about that on the BFC forum. I called it, “gobbledygook”. Sounds to me like it’s just someone trying to get their name out there. I do plan on testing different grits and micro-bevels when I get a Edge-on-up PT50A soon.

My mind tells me that the alternate grinds would only make a difference when you are cutting some medium where…[Read more]

The only system that I have used is the WE130. I use the LAA for smaller pocket knives. The only blade that I had trouble with is the little spey blades. So I bought a Tormek SVM-00 to help with them. It works great. below are a couple of photos of my Buck 301.

I use a couple of edge-leading strokes to remove the burr after every grit and make sure the edge will cut a piece of paper towel. I normally only strop a blade after the edge seems to be dulling a bit. With my leather cutting blades, I strop them before I use them, and after I’ve used them.

I would take the knife apart and reclamp the blade. Maybe that will work?

You’re very welcome. Any time you need help or advice, just ask. And remember that photos always help.

I am using blue painters tape (masking tape) to help the clamp face grab the blade, and Tormek mounting bar, better. But as I said in the other post, the pig skin works better. And leather chamois works even better than the pig skin I would imagine. I’ll probably never use masking tape again.

Oh, welcome to the forum, Steven. To answer your other question, I would go for the WE130. I bought the Pro Pack III when I bought mine. I chose it because it sits lower on the table and because I can do asymmetrical grinds with it. But which system is better for you depends on what you want and need. The WE130 is perfect for me.

Also, you will…[Read more]

I don’t own a dagger, but I believe that using chamois around the dagger would help. I used some pig skin that I use for lining holsters and sheaths with and it works great holding onto knives with. A photo is always helpful when you ask questions.

You can maybe use a Tormek SVM-00 small blade adapter also. I bought one and it works great. I used…[Read more]

Yep, that’s what I do.

That’s what I was thinking also.

Hi Marc. On my Kershaw Launch 1 that I reprofiled/sharpened the other day, I was thinking about you using chamois leather. I didn’t have any chamois so I tried some black pig leather that I use for lining holsters and sheaths. I used the thinnest part I had in the piece that is 0.0265″ thick. It worked great! Thanks.

It just depends on what you need or want. If the edges are way off, you may decide to keep the edges close to their original angles and apex a nice asymmetrical edge. Personally, I have been planning on experimenting with asymmetrical edges anyway at some point since I can easily do that with my WE130.

It just depends on how much steel you need to remove. Once you have the apex of the blade profiled properly, sharpening it up should not remove much steel. That is assuming that you have no damage to the edge that needs fixing.

I log everything on paper and I usually take a photo of how I position the blade in the vise. But I do use my sharpie a lot. I have only seen that I need to tweak the guide rods when I am reprofiling a blade. Once the edges are properly profiled, sharpening them up should be a piece of cake.

I also have his SS micro-adjusters and love them. But I bought them for the adjustability. I sanded the screw tips and everything on the originals down and I didn’t have any loosening problem.

Sorry, our power went out at noon on Monday and just came back on. But Marc pretty much covered it. You just need to check what the bevels look like and see what your angles are using your sharpie. Then you can make a plan of attack.

I sharpened my Kershaw Launch 1 for the first time early Monday morning. The apex looked good and the angles…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum, Larry. I’ve owned my WE130 for 9 months now and I love it! It’s the finest sharpening/reprofiling system available anywhere. I started with a Pro Pack III with travel/storage case. I added 12″ guide rods, scissor attachment, 2200/3000 grit stones, and some aftermarket stuff.

Of course you don’t want to shake the table. I have the aluminum base and it is pretty solid. I also give the cube a few seconds to settle after I zero it before I start using it.

I zero my cube on the base in front of my vise.