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What grit/micron should I have mirror polish?

Recent Forums Main Forum Techniques and Sharpening Strategies What grit/micron should I have mirror polish?

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  • #869
    Todd
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 13

    Here is my lineup of available paddles….

    100/200, 400/600, 800/1000, 1200/1600 ceramics, 3.5/5 micron paste on leather strops, and 3.5/5 micron paste on balsa strops.

    I also have 1 and .25 micron sprays but I need to get another leather strop set to use it on.

    I have done a few knives since getting the WEPS. I have gotten some pretty good results edge wise. But I just can’t get the perfect mirror. I always have some residual hazing no matter how long I stay at each step or how I vary the direction. If I had a better macro lense I would take a pic but I dont. Just suffice to say the mirror is impressive to most folks but I know I can do better.

    So how low do I need to go to get a perfect mirror finish? Or do I need to maybe work longer at some of the later steps? I thought I did enough but maybe not.

    #872
    David
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 47

    From my experience (not with the WEPS yet)it has’nt become a real nice mirror finish till I got down to the 1u range.

    #893
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Depending on how many knives you’ve sharpened, your stones may still be breaking in. During that process, they’ll cut deeper scratches that will take longer to remove with the fine stones. You can spend more time with the ceramics and use a little soapy water with them and they’ll polish much more quickly.

    -Clay

    #897
    Edwin Lurvey
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 80

    I am getting sort of a mirror finish with the 3.5 micron strops. Of course until you wear off the excess compound the strop just slides on compound, so that takes some time. I am also still seeing some remaining scratches from prior grits, so I am still in the process of wearing in the diamonds. I am about 15 or so knives in.

    #908
    Larry
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 44

    I wonder if you can get rid of all the scratches with just the stones and then stropping?
    Seems like the really polished edges are comeing from the water stones, and then under high magnification there still seems to be scratches.

    Lucky

    #913
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I wonder if you can get rid of all the scratches with just the stones and then stropping?
    Seems like the really polished edges are comeing from the water stones, and then under high magnification there still seems to be scratches.

    Lucky

    Even with the finest Shaptons or Choseras, scratches are visible under the microscope. They should be very fine and uniform. Stropping helps to diminish them further, though they never go away completely. Once you think they’re gone, you can just up the magnification and see the finer ones. Still, you can get pretty far with the stock stones and strops. Here is a knife that I sharpened with stock Wicked Edge stones and then stropped to .25 microns:

    Attachments:

    -Clay

    #921
    Edwin Lurvey
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 80


    Here is a cheap knife, I got for free with the purchase of a holster, and it is a real POS. I spent about 20 mins total from reprofile to strop, so with no time, on a crap knife, and an awful camera, here are the results.

    #4380
    Ron Robichaux
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 1

    I just purchased the WES a few weeks ago and have the same problem with getting a mirror look.

    The smallest grit stones I have are the 800/1000 then the 5 and 3.5 strops.

    How do you know when to go to the next highest grit. because my edge is not even close to mirror.

    now it is sharp but dull and scratchy looking. I spent 30mins working on this.

    Should the 1000 grit leave a smooth not polished finished…???

    Is there a step by step instruction
    on going from one grit to another?

    [attachment:3]spdy blade.jpg[/attachment]

    #4381
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    What stones and/or strops did you use?

    Phil

    Here is a cheap knife, I got for free with the purchase of a holster, and it is a real POS. I spent about 20 mins total from reprofile to strop, so with no time, on a crap knife, and an awful camera, here are the results.

    #4384
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    This is an interesting question and one that I was discussing with Steven recently. More on that in a bit.
    I have never gotten to what I would consider any level of mirror edge with the WEPS diamond stones. The scratches are simply too deep and the edge scatters light rather than reflecting it back in a single direction. I have never used the WEPS ceramic stones (mostly because I could never get them). Lots have people have said that they could get a mirror edge with them. I would think that you could with the new microfine ceramics too, but it would require a bunch of strokes.

    The thing that I started off with here was the conversation that I was having on trying to measure the amount of mirror in what people call a mirror edge. Some people say that a 1000 grit Chosera stone give a mirror edge. There was a video posted here where a member created what he called a mirror edge with the stock stones and various grades of sandpaper and lapping film.

    I find that I get a nice looking edge that reflects well after the 2K Choseras, but it gets visibly better with higher grits. After the 10K it is really starting to reflect. After each grit of stroping compound it gets better. I end with 0.025 micron on nanocloth and it is real shiny. So, what is the difference between my 0.025 polish mirror and the folks that get a mirror at 1000 grit?

    More in a bit.

    Ok Tom in his excellent series on using the Choseras and Shaptons talks about something called a “Critical Leap” in a progression. He defines this as the point (and I am paraphrasing) in a progression where the polish goes from being shiny to the eye to the point where it is shiny in the microscope. For the Choseras he says that is at the 10K level, from memory now, he says that it is at either the 15K or 30K level with the Shapton stones.

    Now I wanted to see if I could quantify the difference that I see going from the 10K stone to the 0.025 micron spray on nanocloth. What I found out is that there are devices sold as optical reflectometers that would give the answer. Unfortuanately they are real expensive. But the key thing to remember about them is that their primary function is to measure surface roughness. The smoother the surface for any given material, the more it reflects… and the more mirror like it becomes.

    Keeping this in mind it is easy to see that the higher grit you use, the smoother the surface, and the more mirror like your edge becomes.

    Someone asked about getting a real reflective edge but still having some haze. Another thing I found out in researching this is that any given material has a maximum amount of reflectivity, even with a “perfectly” polished surface. Clay mentioned using more magnification will slways show some abrasive pattern, wekk what if we could use and abrasive that left no scratches… that would be a perfect polish. At that point most stainless steel would reflect 65% of the light falling on them. Manipulating the angle of the light that you use to view will likely always result in you seeing a less than perfect reflection, no matter what you polish with.

    This 65% is nothing close to what a good telescope mirror will do… in the high 90s.. 96 to 98%. No matter what you do to steel, you will not get there.

    So what am I saying? First, a mirror edge is a relative term. I found that some places doing inspection for levels of polish ahd to get humans out of the loop because they were too subjective. Bottom line is, if you think that you have a mirror edge at 1200 or 1600, take it to 0.025 microns, you will see a difference, but you will not have a true mirror edge!

    Second, if you want an edge that comes close to the maximum reflectivity for the steel that you are using, it takes very fine abrasives. Unfortunately the 1000 grit diamonds will not get you there.

    I guess this brings up a question. What do you really want to do? If it is to get a great working edge that is very sharp and will work great for most cutting tasks, the 1000 grit diamonds will get you that.
    If your goal is “pretty” resign yourself to pursuing ever finer grits.

    Hope this helps, and I can quote sources for anyone interested.

    Phil

    I just purchased the WES a few weeks ago and have the same problem with getting a mirror look.

    The smallest grit stones I have are the 800/1000 then the 5 and 3.5 strops.

    How do you know when to go to the next highest grit. because my edge is not even close to mirror.

    now it is sharp but dull and scratchy looking. I spent 30mins working on this.

    Should the 1000 grit leave a smooth not polished finished…???

    Is there a step by step instruction
    on going from one grit to another?

    [attachment:3]spdy blade.jpg[/attachment]

    #4385
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Hi Ron,

    Welcome to the forums! And congratulations with your WEPS.

    I normally get a mirror edge after the 1600 grit ceramics (use them with some water!) and the 5K Choseras. Obviously, if you go any further, the mirror edges only get better.

    These mirror edges are also greatly enhanced by stropping with some Wicked Edge paste on leather.

    Like Philip, I have not seen a mirror edge after the use of the diamond stones only, although you might be able to get one if you strop with a Wicked Edge paste on leather for a long time afterwards.

    Success in obtaining your mirrors!

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #4391
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Couldn’t resist… for post # 100.
    I added a bunch to the post I made just before Mark’s
    4254.
    I hope I wasn’t too wordy.. I hate typing
    🙂

    #4392
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Couldn’t resist… for post # 100.
    I added a bunch to the post I made just before Mark’s
    #4254.
    I hope I wasn’t too wordy.. I hate typing
    🙂

    #4393
    Anthony Yan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 96

    The wavelength of visible light is between 0.38 and 0.74 microns.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visible_light

    Modern optical microscopes have a resolution limit of 0.2 microns (about 1/2 wavelength).
    http://microscopyu.com/articles/optics/index.html

    Telescope mirrors are accurate from about 1/8th to 1/20th wavelength, with the most common being around 1/10th wavelength. Although, they are often smoother than this.

    So if you can get your scratches significantly below 0.2 microns then you should have a very good mirror finish. So my guess is if you can get scratches down to around 0.1 to 0.05 microns, it’ll be a superb mirror finish even under a microscope.

    It is interesting to think about the above in relation to the size of abrasive particles. Although I have no idea how to go from particle-size to scratch-size (it’s too complicated; depends on hardness, shape, friability, pressure, binder, etc.).

    Komitadjie’s Grand Unified Grit Chart as plotted by Mr. Wizard:
    http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/904090/tp/7/

    Sincerely,
    –Lagrangian

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #4394
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Anthony,
    Godd stuff.. in theory. Unfortunately you do not take into account the intrinsic reflectivity maximums for a given material. I will send some info tomorrow form one of the premier polishing companies in the world claiming a max of 65% reflectivity for “stainless steel”. Of course different limits for different formulations of steel.

    In any case, folks using 1000 grit diamonds will not see a mirror finish. People percieving a “mirror” at the 1200/1600 grit level, have a reflective surface, but a ways to go to get to the reflectivity limits of steel. My post was because I was trying to explore how some people say they have a mirror at X grit and others at XXX grit, and what accounts for the difference.

    According to Tom and he has photomicrographs at 400x, the 0.17 micron grit of the 10K chosera is where he saw significant reflectivity … at 400X that is as good as the empirical data that I have seen goes.
    I will be intersted to see what can be done with Clays new microscope. I would love to see some sort of hard data that sorts one person’s mirror from another’s more highly polished mirror.

    This is real interesting stuff.. as soon as we figure out that we can polish metal to the degree that we can rival optical mirrors… I can throw away a bunch of pyrex mirrors ground to 1/20 wave and optically coated for 96 to 98% reflectivity…
    🙂 (of course then you have to deal with coefficients of expansion and other obtuse issues. They did give up on speculum polished metal mirros a hundred years ago…

    Of course, then we need to figure out who cares about reflectivity of an edge… sharp is what we want.. polish is just pretty…

    Phil

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