WEPS settings for PARA 2 S30V

[jumpstat]

Hi all,

Could someone share what would be the best settings for a PARA 2. I really like the original edge from spyderco but I think its time for a WEP profile. Most importantly, I need to retain the pointy end of the PARA 2.

Thanks in advance.

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Gazillion

[Josh]

I use this method w/ an angle cube instead of the stock depth settings – I never use those any more. I also use the sharpie method in conjunction w/ this a LOT. To maintain the point keep more pressure on your thumbs than your fingers (if the knife is pointing away from you) and you won’t roll around that tip.

 

I recommend reprofiling to 15 dps, try it, and if you have any issues throw on a microbevel. I’m gonna push my EDC folder (ZT 0561) down to 10 dps soon (w/ a microbevel likely).

 

1 user thanked author for this post.

Gazillion

[Anonymous]

I have developed my own standard for sharpening. Now that I have the wicked edge, my knife sharpening has enter a new level of repeatability. I’ve been sharpening knives for 50 years, but never with the success that the wicked edge has given me. What I thought was sharp, was in reality very dull, compared to the edge I can get with my wicked edge system.

Here is what yy engineering mind ( very analytical ) has discovered. I can put on a 15 * degree edge or a 20 * degree edge. 15* degree for razor sharp hair shaving sharpness, to any knife I own. If I’m looking for a field edge, that is, cutting wood, or other harsh items, Ill put a 20* edge. still wicked sharp but less prone to chipping and having to re-profile. I see many people overthinking this process. I use the angle cube to get a specific angle. the biggest trick is to load the blade in the vise in such a way as to allow the sharpening process to evenly follow the edge. this is accomplished using the sharpie method.  Once you see how the stone is contacting the edge, you can make a slight adjustment to effect uniform contact.

The next big tip is to develop a burr. You do this by sharpening one side Only until you create a burr on the opposite side, once created, you can now set the same angle using the cube, on the opposite side… once the burr has bee created along the entire edge surface ( very important ). You can now remove that burr from the other side to get that wicked edge sharpness. Then  its just a simple matter of going through the stones, ceramics and strops to attain the mirror finish and with that an even greater sense of sharpness.. I have to tell you, these edges I have created using the wicked edge ( I just received it a few days ago ) are scary sharp. It takes no time to learn this system., after the third knife, the process has become so simple. Its fun, and its actually very scary to be able to produce an edger this sharp, so easily and with such confidence.

Because I have bursitis in my shoulders, I alternate strokes by stroking one side of the knife 25 times then switching to the other side giving my shoulder a chance to rest. I usually stroke through the stones 100 X times.  when I get to the strops, I will lube them up with micro paste, and do 200 stokes with both 1.5 micron and 0.5 micron diamond paste. when IM done, its a beautiful thing.  Last night, I sliced a tomato with one of my just  sharpened knives. I was able to see through the tomato slice, ( about 0.005 in. thick ) and repeat that with each additional slice. I smiled because in 50 years , Ive never been able to do that, even with a band new knife with a factory edge.

Bill aka ET

[jumpstat]

Josh wrote:

I use this method w/ an angle cube instead of the stock depth settings – I never use those any more. I also use the sharpie method in conjunction w/ this a LOT. To maintain the point keep more pressure on your thumbs than your fingers (if the knife is pointing away from you) and you won’t roll around that tip. I recommend reprofiling to 15 dps, try it, and if you have any issues throw on a microbevel. I’m gonna push my EDC folder (ZT 0561) down to 10 dps soon (w/ a microbevel likely). <iframe src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/2T0wQDHKMR0?feature=oembed&#8221; width=”670″ height=”377″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe>

Thanks for the tip on ‘how not to roll the tip’ and the very informative video.

Anonymous wrote:

I have developed my own standard for sharpening. Now that I have the wicked edge, my knife sharpening has enter a new level of repeatability. I’ve been sharpening knives for 50 years, but never with the success that the wicked edge has given me. What I thought was sharp, was in reality very dull, compared to the edge I can get with my wicked edge system. Here is what yy engineering mind ( very analytical ) has discovered. I can put on a 15 * degree edge or a 20 * degree edge. 15* degree for razor sharp hair shaving sharpness, to any knife I own. If I’m looking for a field edge, that is, cutting wood, or other harsh items, Ill put a 20* edge. still wicked sharp but less prone to chipping and having to re-profile. I see many people overthinking this process. I use the angle cube to get a specific angle. the biggest trick is to load the blade in the vise in such a way as to allow the sharpening process to evenly follow the edge. this is accomplished using the sharpie method. Once you see how the stone is contacting the edge, you can make a slight adjustment to effect uniform contact. The next big tip is to develop a burr. You do this by sharpening one side Only until you create a burr on the opposite side, once created, you can now set the same angle using the cube, on the opposite side… once the burr has bee created along the entire edge surface ( very important ). You can now remove that burr from the other side to get that wicked edge sharpness. Then its just a simple matter of going through the stones, ceramics and strops to attain the mirror finish and with that an even greater sense of sharpness.. I have to tell you, these edges I have created using the wicked edge ( I just received it a few days ago ) are scary sharp. It takes no time to learn this system., after the third knife, the process has become so simple. Its fun, and its actually very scary to be able to produce an edger this sharp, so easily and with such confidence. Because I have bursitis in my shoulders, I alternate strokes by stroking one side of the knife 25 times then switching to the other side giving my shoulder a chance to rest. I usually stroke through the stones 100 X times. when I get to the strops, I will lube them up with micro paste, and do 200 stokes with both 1.5 micron and 0.5 micron diamond paste. when IM done, its a beautiful thing. Last night, I sliced a tomato with one of my just sharpened knives. I was able to see through the tomato slice, ( about 0.005 in. thick ) and repeat that with each additional slice. I smiled because in 50 years , Ive never been able to do that, even with a band new knife with a factory edge. Bill aka ET

Yup, I too was very happy when I first got the WEPS. By just following the simple procedures, the results were outstanding. I trained on all my kitchen knives and made my wife very very happy. I think I’ll invest in the angle cube too. Can’t really rely on the scale markings as different blades do differ and angles do change from knife to knife.

If setup correctly, no more uneven bevels. All I need is more practice. Probably head down to my parents and sharpen their knives too 🙂

[Anonymous]

The angle cube is very important, because one side of the vise is fixed. this means that the angle on the side that moves pushes the knife in that direction based on the thickness. You will find that the fixed degree marks have no direct relationship to the actual angle. The angle cube will allow you to make micro adjustments so you will read the true angle of each side. with the cube you will see how the degree marks on the Wicked edge, are just a reference to get you close. If you want a razor edge with repeatability, the cube will get you there.  the difference between relying one the degree bar or the cube, is like using a ruler compared to a digital micrometer… ( much more precise. )

[Geocyclist]

Thanks for the great video.  I had used tape and tried to line the edge of the tape with my knife edge, not so easy.  Brilliant idea to mark a line on the tape.  I have my first Para 2o on the way so perfect timing with the video, especially showing how you tilt it.

The point of even finger/thumb pressure is a great tip.  I have not really thought about that too much.  I sharpen sitting on the sofa with the WE on a table.  The last several knives have had the tip on one side more acute than the other.  My bevel on the main flat of the blade is pretty even side to side.  I think sitting is part of my problem (I often rest my elbow on my leg) but that may also affect my finger/thumb hold.

Jumpstat, use the sharpie a lot.  One thing I learned the hard way is if you don’t get the edge right in the beginning don’t go any further.  It won’t get better with the smaller grit stones.  Plus the problem is probably in your setup.  So keep checking with the sharpie until you are satisfied.  After that I continue checking as I use the 100’s.

 

 

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