Using Diamond Lapping Film (DLF)

[Marc H]

I think this is a good subject to add to this Forum Category. I’ve been reading in this forum lately where several of you frequent contributors are using lapping film. I have only found one video showing the use of it That was in the Jende Blog and that was essentially using it free hand to sharpen a razor, not with the WEPS. I ordered glass platens and an assortment of films and have had at it. DLF does work well. It’s the first time I’ve truly achieved a mirror polished edge. Now I have lots of questions about how others are using DLF and your techniques. For example are you using edge trailing or edge leading strokes? Does anyone find they can use a scrubbing motion? I find even with the lightest touch with edge leading it sometimes cuts into the film. Edge trailing is no problem. At what point in your sharpening progression are you switching over from diamond, ceramic or stone platens to DLF? What micron size DLF are you beginning with and how small are you progressing? At what point are you progressing to strops? On average how many knives are you getting done before you find the strip falls off in effectiveness? What brand of DLF are you using and where are you purchasing it? Is there one DLF you’ve found longer lasting or more effective than another? Any other info you care to share on this technique is appreciated.

Marc

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

[tcmeyer]

Ooh! Lots of questions…

I use diamond film a lot and I’m having almost no problems with it. Recently I made the mistake of trying to lap my ceramic stones on a 1200 grit EZE-Lap plate. This removed the surface finish, which was the key to the 1.4/0.6 micron equivalent, so I’ve put both pairs of ceramics on the shelf for now.

I have a bunch of home-made glass blocks, so I keep all the different diamond and AlO films at hand. My polish progression goes from 1000 grit diamond to 15 micron film (the equivalent of 1200 grit) to 9 micron (1800), to 6 micron (3000) to 3 micron (8000), to 1.5, to 1.0 to 0.5, and finally to 0.1 micron. Four pairs. All are diamond except for the 9 micron, which is Aluminum oxide.

For lesser edges, I may stop at 1000 grit, or maybe the 15 and 9 micron. I haven’t yet tried the 200-grit micro-bevel

I think there’s some learning curve required to keep your film from being sliced. First, it is really important to get your film applied perfectly. Any dust contamination or bubble will raise a bump in the film which for sure will start a slice. I carefully wipe the glass down with an alcohol wipe, watching for any contamination. Then I take my film strips and hold the ends with thumb and index fingers of both hands and stretch them out tight as I lay them down. Don’t worry about contaminating the ends – you won’t use the ends anyway. I think stretching is important, because it helps attach the film more tightly. A tight stretch means a harder film surface. A harder film surface means more resistance to cutting. I then wipe (squeegy) the surface with a dowel, pen or screwdriver, whatever, to squeeze out any bubbles and to press every last bit of backing adhesive down onto the platen. If you see a bubble or bump forming and it’s still possible, peel the strip off, clear the problem and reapply the strip.

I often use scrubbing strokes, but only on straight sections of the edge. A deep belly or concave edge will dig into the soft film, producing a beautiful cut, much like you did with your leather strops. Come on. Everybody does it. Like your strops, unless the cut is catastrophic, you can probably still use it. A little bump in your stroke ain’t gonna do much.

I don’t use a liquid media on my films, so they build up dirt and swarf after a while. I find that they clean up very nicely with the Superaser Wicked Edge sells. I’ve looked closely with my 180X USB microscope and if I don’t see areas of the grit which have been clearly wiped clean from the substrate, I assume the grit is still attached. I haven’t paid attention to the actual life of the film, but when used properly (say, maybe 20 strokes per grit) I think that 15 to 20 knives is possible, depending on the length of the blades. Maybe more. I don’t do a lot of blades longer than 3-4 inches.

I recently changed out all of my films, just to start with a clean slate again and I was amazed at how effective the films were. It was clear to me that I had some serious contamination problems. Without the scratches from contamination, the number of strokes required per film grit was greatly reduced. I knew that I had been a notch worse than careless. It wuz a lesson learnt.

To explain the microscope thing further – if you look at the surface of the film closely, you’ll see a matrix of dots, distributed very uniformly over the film. When the film reaches the end of its life, you’ll see areas which have no dots. I assume that them there dots is diamonds, and that diamonds don’t wear out; they wear off. So if the dots are still there, I assume the diamonds are still there. Pretty simplistic, but until somebody smarter tells me different, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Another late night symposium I’ll probably regret.

Tom

[Pinkfloyd]

Tom,

Thanks for the info. I have used DLF for my EP. From 9 micron on I used edge trailing strokes. I haven’t tried on the WE yet. When I used on EP I did use soapy water on the film. It seemed to make the strokes smoother. I used non PSA film and used Scotch 77 to glue to glass platens, do you use PSA films? Where do you purchase your films from?

Thanks,

Dave

[Marc H]

Tom, as always, thanks for your contribution. I love your late night symposiums.

What brand PSA DLFs are you using and where do you get them? With my learning curve I’m going through the higher grits faster than I’d like to, (I start with 3µ following 1.4/0.6µ ceramics). Also what brand AlOx film and where do you get those. Do you notice much difference in the AlOx vs DLF? I see 3M film from Best Sharpening Stones. They describe them as “abrasive film”, whatever abrasive that might be. Also I see DLF at Jende Industries. Both of these are a little different then the PSA DLF I initially got from Wicked edge. Also Tools for Working Wood has PSA films of SiCarb and AlOx, but not cut for WEPS.

I too lapped my 1200/1600 after reading I might want to do that on this forum. It too screwed them up at first but I kept with them and they came around. Now they work pretty well. When they feel too scratchy I spritz them with water and it helps a lot. I start with Diamond plates as low as is necessary for what I’m doing, progress through 1000grit, then the 1200/1600grit, 1.4/0.6µ ceramics, then on the DLF: 3.0µ/1.5µ/1µ and down.

I might try to spritz the film with soapy water before attempting scrubbing strokes again.

Thanks,
Marc

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

[tcmeyer]

I’ve used three different diamond films, all PSA films from WE, Lee Valley and Nanolap. Nanolap is the cheapest. I bought my first non-diamond films from BestSharpeningstones.com. They describe them as Aluminum Oxide.

The diamond film seems to last much longer than the AlO, but I’ve never actually experimented, or even paid much attention to it, so I can’t say for sure.

[developer (ChrisB)]

How quickly do the strips get too loaded to be functional? And then do you clean them or toss them? I’ve never fooled with DLF’s before except with my jewelry work where I use emery paper to rough out solder joint lines and whatnot.

Working to make knife.wickededgeusa.com a great forum!

[tcmeyer]

When my films get pretty dark and dirty, I scrub them with a Superaser (sold here by WE). It works really well. I’d guess that films last me maybe 20 knives?? I almost always replace them not because they’re worn out, but rather because they’ve become contaminated and are causing scratches.

[developer (ChrisB)]

i got my films from tools for woodworking , they are unblieveable , you can cut them yourself , pretty simple enough there , they recomend useing oil with them , used a little soapy water , got the sample pack 2 sheets ea. .3 micron (12000 grit ), 5 micron (5000 grit ) , 15 micron ( 1200 grit ) got a super mirror finish with just the 15 and the 5 , they will last at least 10 knives ,25 – 50 strokes / side , good questions ..at least thats my exp so far

Working to make knife.wickededgeusa.com a great forum!

[tcmeyer]

I checked Tools for Working Wood and find only non-diamond abrasive PSA film. Greg, do you have a more specific URL we could go to?

[developer (ChrisB)]

here is the link https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/ST-MAF.XX/3M_Micro_Abrasive_Film__for_Scary_Sharpening_-_PSA#reviews , the films i used were silicon cabide bottom of the box on the left of page

Working to make knife.wickededgeusa.com a great forum!

[CliffCurry]

Huge fan of the lapping films and am also using the the much less expensive (and less durable) aluminum oxide & silicon carbide lapping films.

I am treating them as disposable one time use items…At $1.20 per sheet(9in x 13in) you can get 26 strips(1in x 4.5in), thats under 5 cents per strip! I use one strip per side then toss em.

You may want to give good old amazon a look 😉 , their prices are cheaper for genuine 3m lapping film products.

[developer (ChrisB)]

Huge fan of the lapping films and am also using the the much less expensive (and less durable) aluminum oxide & silicon carbide lapping films.

I am treating them as disposable one time use items…At $1.20 per sheet(9in x 13in) you can get 26 strips(1in x 4.5in), thats under 5 cents per strip! I use one strip per side then toss em.

You may want to give good old amazon a look 😉 , their prices are cheaper for genuine 3m lapping film products.

Are they cut to the right specs with sticky backing? Or will I need some scissors and tape? haha

Working to make knife.wickededgeusa.com a great forum!

[CliffCurry]

They come as full sheets, no sticky back PSA on these. I just cut my own strips and tape them on with blue painters tape. Swap out takes under 10 secs.

There is also PSA backed sheets, they look to be a bit over $3/sheet when buying a pack of 5.

I keep mine in a sealed envelope and pull out the sheet I need and cut a few strips as I go, then re-seal the package.

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