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uneven stones?

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  • #13246
    Daniel maloon
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    • Topics: 10
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    Hi, ive got a question.

    #13248
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    Welcome to the forum!

    I duplicated what you did, and found results that were somewhat similar. Keep in mind that only 1/2 the difference you see actually matters, since the actual distance is between the center of the holder to one side.

    Still, there is a difference, so I did a bit more. The biggest difference in mine looked to be between the 100/200 and 800/1000, so I used those. Using the digital angle gauge, I measured a difference of .6 deg. I then marked the edge of a knife with a Sharpie and went back and forth between the stones, remarking and checking for marker removal. There didn’t seem to be an issue with the stones removing the marker. I’ve mentioned this before, while precision and accuracy are important (consistency even more), there should be enough “give” in the system to allow for slight changes, and allow the stone to “find” the edge, and this appeared to occur. This may be a test you want to try and see if you find what I did.

    I suspect there are other reasons for you taking a while to obtain a mirror edge, one perhaps being your stones are new and need a bit of break in? There are some other discussions on this, if you take a look at this page of the Wiki, at the top there’s a couple of links to forum discussions on obtaining a mirror finish. (There’s probably some more links that need to be added to this section).

    Hope that helps.

    #13249
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Hey Curtis thanks for the reply. I’ll go ahead and try your idea of marking the blade in between stones. I know the stones are broken in by now. I’ll take more crappy pics if anything shows lol

    #13250
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    That’s a nice experiment you did, Curtis. I once did a similar experiment to see what angle I should aim for when using my waterstones, which are quite a bit thicker than my stock stones.

    I found that in some cases I could go up to almost 1 degree difference before the Sharpie marker wasn’t removed properly anymore. Since then my goal always is to remain within a .5 degree difference just to be sure.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #13256
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    This is where the SWATS will be very useful currently I have an EP and the lower the angle the more pronounced the effect of different stone thicknesses have the EP solution is the drill stop collar the difference really shows on the sharpness possible plus when I used to get on to the polishing tapes 2000-6000 they would often be cut by the blade that does not happen any more.
    If you have not got the SWATS as yet the only solution is the sharpie on the edge at every stone change; otherwise it is quite possible your edge work will be undone at each stone change (worst case scenario).

    #13274
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    i’d delete it if i could

    #13288
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Special Weapons And Tactics Service?

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #13289
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    Sounds apt

    my version of S.W.A.T.S.

    #13300
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Still, there is a difference, so I did a bit more. The biggest difference in mine looked to be between the 100/200 and 800/1000, so I used those. Using the digital angle gauge, I measured a difference of .6 deg. I then marked the edge of a knife with a Sharpie and went back and forth between the stones, remarking and checking for marker removal. There didn’t seem to be an issue with the stones removing the marker. I’ve mentioned this before, while precision and accuracy are important (consistency even more), there should be enough “give” in the system to allow for slight changes, and allow the stone to “find” the edge, and this appeared to occur. This may be a test you want to try and see if you find what I did.

    I found the same thing Curtis. Because of the minor variations in the stock stones, and having a selection of waterstones of significantly different thicknesses, I check my angles with the cube every time that I change stones, when I am being particular …i.e looking for perfection. In other words, if I am sharpening at 17 degrees, I will check and adjust so that the cube says 17 degrees at each level. Of course we know that the cube is only accurate to +/- 0.2 degrees, but it makes me happy to see 17.00 on the display! In other words, no one promised exact uniformity of the thickness of the stones… and I don’t expect it.
    :woohoo:
    👿

    Having said that, when doing routine sharpening or just touch up I think the variations between the stock diamonds, the ceramics, or the strops as groups can safely be ignored. The WEPS sourced Choseras are really close enough too, even after lapping to remove some material at somewhat different amounts per individual stone.

    I suspect there are other reasons for you taking a while to obtain a mirror edge, one perhaps being your stones are new and need a bit of break in?

    The biggest reason for not getting a highly reflective bevel is not enough work with a grit that is fine enough to polish to the level you want! Using my definition of a mirror finish, it simply cannot be obtained with anything more coarse then the 10K Chosera stones and sub-micron diamond abrasives on strops. Anything less is just “kind of, sort of, shiny”. But ultimately, the level of reflectivity is simply based upon polishing with ever finer abrasives. You get back what you put in, no more no less!

    Of course this is all based on personal opinion and my direct experience, take it for what it is worth…

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