Tomato Testing

[Thomas Ascher]

I understand using leather strops on short knives using just up motion. On a 240mm Gyuto not so easy. Maybe I’ll look into using finer stones. Or just being satisfied to end with ceramics!

[Thomas Ascher]

Good suggestion where I find leather strops too difficult. Expensive, but maybe less hassle in the long run!

[cbwx34]

I understand using leather strops on short knives using just up motion. On a 240mm Gyuto not so easy. Maybe I’ll look into using finer stones. Or just being satisfied to end with ceramics!

Just follow Phil’s tip….

Even if you have to recock… start your stroke over once or twice as Clay did in the cleaver viceo… always make sure the you are pusing the strop up and away from the edge.

Basically, when you get to the strop, just “divide” the knife in shorter sections so you’re always doing an up stroke. Then it doesn’t matter how long the knife is. In fact, you can do this with the stones/ceramics also, on a long knife, to keep the stroke from becoming parallel to the edge.

[Thomas Ascher]

Okay, maybe I’ll order a pair of leather strops again and give a try. Which strops and paste would you recommend once I finish with the micro-fine ceramics?

[Phil Pasteur]

As I wrote above:

“After the ultrafine ceramics I often use the 5/3.5 micron pastes. Depending on the level of refinement you want, you can go as low as you want from there.”

[Phil Pasteur]

For some reason…after I pasted the qoute… I can’t add to or edit the last poast..

Anyway, I have also started with the 14/10 micron paste then used the 5/3.5 with good effect. I think Mark has information on his blog about his results with the pastes.

This is also a great thread with lots of photos that should be a must read if you want to make a decision on where to start. If you have read some of my posts lately, you will know that I am not buying the first few statements that Mark makes in that post about stiction and burnishing, but the rest of the thread deals more with documenting actual results. You can draw your own conlusions… but do read the thread.

http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=5&id=2399&Itemid=63

[Thomas Ascher]

What about after the micro-fine?

[Phil Pasteur]

Did you read the thread that I linked?

I start with the 5/3.5 pastes(actually 6/3 in the dmt paste that I have now)..
Regardless of whether I go to the 12K or 15K waterstones, or stop with the super fine ceramics.

If I decide not to use paste, but diamond or CBN spray, I might use 1 micron and 0.5 micron levels first.

It depends on what I want for that blade, the steel, etc.

So, It depends, there are no answers that fit every situation…and as usual, you have to try things for yourself. I think, to start…to get a technique down, maybe try some plain strops. Once you can use those properly, try the 5/3.5 micron paste… then figure out what works for you from there.

Read the thread it will reveal much…

A theory of how the WE diamond pastes work

http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=5&id=2399&Itemid=63

[Thomas Ascher]

There’s almost too much information, too much testing, too many photographs! I’m overwhelmed! Think I’ll get the leather strops and try the smallest pastes. It has so much to do with direction of movement, number of passes, technique! I’ll know more when I’ve gone back to the strops and try on my own. Thanks for the help, references, there’s really no lack of information on the forum! This really goes way beyond practicality. My knives are really sharp enough. But as a hobby, much fun and less expense than restoring classic cars or old homes… :cheer:

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