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Thick Spine Cleavers

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  • #40651
    Peter Lai
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 5

    <u>Bone Chopper</u>

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/113422851151042580549/album/6441252656046737633/6441252652769743490?authkey=CODZiInRt_P2Ow

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/113422851151042580549/album/6441252656046737633/6441252654724269346?authkey=CODZiInRt_P2Ow

    <u>Slicer</u>

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/113422851151042580549/album/6441252656046737633/6441252653440007954?authkey=CODZiInRt_P2Ow

    <u>Poultry Chopper</u>

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/113422851151042580549/album/6441252656046737633/6441252653735817458?authkey=CODZiInRt_P2Ow

    Does anyone have experience sharpening very wide spine knives with an immediate concave grind toward the edge with the WEPS?  The bone chopper has a reversed taper the widest at 21 mm at the tip and about 15 mm at the handle.  The darn thing weighs 1.5 kgs.  The slicer just fits the WEPS! But not the poultry and bone choppers 🙁

    Thanks!

     

    #40653
    Organic
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 929

    Those things are kitchen hatchets! Sorry, I don’t have any relevant experience to share. I know that people have sharpened such implements on the WE.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #46417
    Peter Lai
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 5

    To update everyone I get this fetish with cleavers.  Ordered this Deng clan cleaver.  The spine and taper have the same profile as the ones posted above.  Will there be a special version of the WE120 for an odd blade profile  like this in the future?  Thinking of putting in pieces of wood and leather into the clamp.

    Attachments:
    #46423
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2169

    Peter, even if you could clamp the cleaver knife securely the other issue is with a blade edge that tall above the jaw height you’ll need very long rod arms to allow for the efficient movement of the stones up and across the edge.  The more difficult issue to overcome is to set a proper (most probably wide), bevel angle with that tall an edge.  That would require a very long square angle bar, I believe must longer than the bar is now.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by MarcH.
    #46431
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 37
    • Replies: 1955

    Peter:  I am just curious if the bone chopper is sharp on both sides?

    I got a box of junker knives from one of my sisters about eight months ago.  They had been collected by her husband, who had died a few years ago.  In that batch was a rusty old Japanese cleaver with no handle – only a small, tapered tang.  Very few of the 20-or-so knives were worth more than 50 cents, which is probably about what he paid for them.  The cleaver, however, peaks my interest as a possible candidate for resurrection, so I’m interested in what you learn here.

    I still have my Gen 1 vise, which I kept, complete with base, just for those jobs which wouldn’t work in my two Gen 3 vises.  It saves me from having to buy a 1/4″ set of Gen 3 clamps.  I have 14-inch rods, so I don’t think sharpening the cleaver would be problematic.  I think everybody ought to have a set of extra-long rods in their tool kit.

    Thinking about how a bone chopper would need high bevels angles makes me tend to agree with Marc that maybe the desired angle might be high enough that, when combined with the height of the edge, reaching higher angles might be a problem.

    I bought a length of stainless steel 5/16″ square bar stock for my extra vise and base.  You can make a degree-bar of any length very easily by drilling two holes.  Theoretically, extra-long rods and an extra-long degree-bar would give you whatever angle you might want possible.  The detent positions are lost, but if you use an angle-cube and micro-adjustments you really don’t need them anyway.

    I have a Chicago Cutlery cleaver which I used to test a chisel grind edge.  I don’t recall that its spine thickness was a problem, either. I sharpened it to 20 degrees, probably on my Gen 1 rig.

    BTW, cutting radishes into very thin slices with the chisel grind was an eye-opener.  I could cut slices down to about a half millimeter while cutting with the opposite hand wouldn’t produce a slice less than about 3mm thick.     This was probably caused by the fact that the primary bevel was so thick just behind the bevel shoulder.  It pushed the edge away from the body of the radish.

    #46437
    NickedEdge
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 53

    …I have 14-inch rods, so I don’t think sharpening the cleaver would be problematic. I think everybody ought to have a set of extra-long rods in their tool kit. Thinking about how a bone chopper would need high bevels angles makes me tend to agree with Marc that maybe the desired angle might be high enough that, when combined with the height of the edge, reaching higher angles might be a problem.

    Tim aka (Tom), I bought the 12″ rods with my initial purchase. Are the 14″ rods an aftermarket product or did you make them up?

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by NickedEdge.
    #46441
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 37
    • Replies: 1955

    Hi Nick:  I made my own 14″ rods, but I’ve been told that WE will make you a set on special order.

     

    Tom…. Not Tim  LOL

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #46442
    NickedEdge
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 53

    Errr…Thanks Tom! Doh!

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