Sharpening CRKT Shinbu

[Shawn Ginardi]

So I saw one of these on eBay for a great price (used) and decided to buy it, when I get it, it looks like this guy was cutting cement with it. It has a dual tapered tip grind (listed on their website) which doesn’t have a micro bevel. How would me go about sharpening this knife?

[Leo Barr]

Looking at the pictures and bearing in mind the sword type of inspiration behind it the edge should be convexed so from the Shinogi angle which is probable less than 10Ëš to an edge of around 16Ëš so you could start around 16 or a little higher and then work back dropping a degree at a time till you can go no lower then strop out the transitions .

Make sure your edge bevel is refined and sharp before you start to drop back towards the Shinogi .
If it is really as bad as you say the set the bevel really high to quickly remove the rough edge then put a cutting bevel of 16/18 and then do as I wrote above !

I think some pictures before & after would be appropriate.

[Dennis Gocong]

Yeah, what Leo said!

WEPs should make easy work of it, and definitely add pics (before & after)….I’d really love to see your progression.

[Shawn Ginardi]

Ok I lied, it is not the Shinbu, but the Hisshou – which is the longer version (I have both) I couldn’t remember what the name was and couldn’t get google to pull up the knife, but it pulled up the Shinbu, which is basically the same knife and in the same series but the Shinbu is the short version.

ANYWAY…..I’ve seen a video of Clay convexing the edge on a knife and I think he went from 16-20 and progressed through them all (16,17,18,19,20) but I thought he went into a specific order and skipped from one end to the other.

How many degrees actually turns a blade into a convexed edge and is this really what I want to do to a knife tht has this style of grind? I mean by changing it to a micro bevel OR is it the only choice on a WEPS?

Thanks,

Shawn

[Shawn Ginardi]

Ok I mounted it (not very securely) and can get an edge of around 13.5 if I take a measurement right at the clamp, but if I use the cube and move the arm to the tip area it jumps to 18.5 and if I move it towards the handle its about 16 degrees.

I don’t know how comfortable I am even trying to sharpen this knife.

[Leo Barr]

There is not a clear answer to that the gentler the curve of the convex the thinner the knife will be so it will cut deeply easily if the convex is very steep its shoulders will hit stopping it from cutting so deeply . So that depends what you want from it if it is right you should hardly see the the convex
This is intentionally an asymmetric convex so the right side has a convex edge around 10Ëš & the left around 17Ëš

Attachments:

• IMG_1455.jpg
• IMG_1456.jpg

[Leo Barr]

Well before you start shedding metal keep adjusting the position until you get the readings you want it is no race !
As said if the edge is really ropy then do something like a 30Ëš angle to get rid of the micro chips .
The positioning put reference points on the blade so you an systematically move it around to find the sweet spot either put say a line of paper tape on each side (and mark off positions etc with a fine marker pen) near the spine so you can refine that position (both fore and aft & pitch ) I am sure patience will prevail .

[cbwx34]

Ok I mounted it (not very securely) and can get an edge of around 13.5 if I take a measurement right at the clamp, but if I use the cube and move the arm to the tip area it jumps to 18.5 and if I move it towards the handle its about 16 degrees.

Something doesn’t sound quite right here,,,, are you keeping the angle gauge perpendicular to the base as you’re taking the measurements?

If the edge is parallel to the base, you shouldn’t see much change along the straight portion.

See the pics and description on this page.

[Dennis Gocong]

Yep, Curtis is right….as long as you keep the angle cube perpendicular to the base of the WEPs, then your angle will be constant regardless whether you are at the tip or heel of the knife.

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