RESHARPENING A KNIFE & PRO PACK 2 QUESTION
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- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 07/21/2013 at 3:06 am by Phil Pasteur.
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07/18/2013 at 4:26 am #13391
My question is where do you start on a knife that you have sharpened? My other question with reference to the “Pro Pack 2” is there anything that in the works that will protect the bearings from the dust of sharpening?
Anyone…Anyone…Beuler?07/18/2013 at 5:11 am #13393My question is where do you start on a knife that you have sharpened?
Anyone…Anyone…Beuler?What do you mean by sharpened? Is this a free hand or already sharpened on the WE? It is dull, chipped or still really sharp? Tell us a little bit more about the knife? :S As for as the dust? I wash my arms and base after every sharpening session with soap and water then dry. To date I have had zero problems with my WE. 😉
07/20/2013 at 8:36 pm #13469The knives have been sharpened with the WE were very sharp, my question is where do I start on doing the maintenance of bringing back the edge I got the first…suggestions/tips?
The other question has to do with the upgrade to the bearing swivels, is there a “boot” available to put over them to keep the sharpening dust away from said bearings?07/20/2013 at 10:19 pm #13471For me if a knife is already sharp (sharp is wildly debated subject) I might just strop and see if the edge returns back to where we were? :unsure: If that doesn’t work, then I will usually start out with the 400/600 diamonds. I’m big on bring back a burr. Others don’t feel that is necessary and will start with alternating strokes. :huh:
This is part of the fun with the WE, 😛 you can decide what you would like to do? If your unsure try on a old beater knife first? :S I have never wrecked a knife on the WE? But I definitely have had to start over. :whistle:
Don’t be scared to play with it a bit? the results are amazing!!! :woohoo: :cheer:
Also some people cut the fingers out of dish washing gloves to cover the bearings. Sorry I don’t know anything past that subject, but someone will chime in? :unsure:07/20/2013 at 11:26 pm #13475A 5 page thread on covers for the ball joints.
I don’t cover mine at all. I wipe them down with alcohol every so often and keep them lubed with a synthetic oil with PTFE. Lots of knives sharpened and they still look and feel as new.
I do use magnets, one on the end of the ball, the ones I have incorporate a flat spot on the ball where the magnet stays put… one on either side of the top of the joint right below where the arm threads in… front and back. They do capture quite a bit of metal filings.
My question is where do you start on a knife that you have sharpened?
I would love to try to answer this, but I have no idea what the question is. What are you trying to understand…precisely? It will probably take more than one sentence to describe… sorry!
07/20/2013 at 11:55 pm #13477I would like to see a picture of that solution . I do leatherwork so I have thought about making some boots but I prefer the minimal( like seeing a motorcycle engine not covered with fibreglass or carbon) look and I think these ball joints look pretty natty to me I am however patiently waiting for my WE.
07/21/2013 at 1:03 am #13478The knives have been sharpened with the WE were very sharp, my question is where do I start on doing the maintenance of bringing back the edge I got the first…suggestions/tips?
Ok, I did not see this to begin with. Are you asking how to touch up a knife that you already have sharpened once on the WEPS, but needs an edge refresh.
If you write down all of the pertinent data when you sharpen each knife, it should be easy to go back and duplicate the edge pretty quickly for a touch up. You should record the length from the center of the jaws to the tip of the knife, which set of holes you used to set the depth in the vise, and, of course, the angle that you used to set the edge.
Next time, just use the same settings. Lately I have been starting with the 800 diamonds and going finer from there as my mood dictates, for a touch up. 800/1000 and a bit of stropping may well be all that you need to use. If you know all of the info and set things up the same, you do not have to remove much metal to apex the edge and get the blade sharp.
If you have not recorded the information, you will need to use the Sharpie marker on the edge to verify blade placement and angles. This is no different than any knife that you are starting from scratch on. But do record the information for the next time once you determine the correct placement. But, still, once the blade is located properly, you should not need to remove much metal to get it sharp. In other words, it is not necessary to start with your coarsest stones and to draw a burr for a touch up.
07/21/2013 at 3:06 am #13485I would like to see a picture of that solution . I do leatherwork so I have thought about making some boots but I prefer the minimal( like seeing a motorcycle engine not covered with fibreglass or carbon) look and I think these ball joints look pretty natty to me I am however patiently waiting for my WE.
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