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Pro-Pack II Ceramic Stone Question

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  • #6486
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    Hi all. I am looking at the Pro-Pack II and am confused about the ceramic stones. I see it includes the Micro Fine Micro Ceramic Stones(1.4 micron/.6 micron) but not the Super Fine Ceramic Stones(1200/1600). I don’t understand the jump to the Micro Fine from the included 1000 Grit Diamond Stones without first using the Super Fine Ceramics. Would I need to also consider including these stones when I am able to purchase. My goal is a hair whittling mirrored finish in the end! Thanks.

    #6487
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Good question. I was wondering the same.

    #6491
    Kyle Mazur
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 21

    i know there was an issue with the formula or the manufacturing of the original superfine ceramic stones. It has been sorted out according to clay and mine should be here very soon. that might be the reason.

    i know that for me, going 1000 to 5 micron is too big a jump so i’ve been using 1500 and 2000 wet/dry sand paper

    #6492
    Scott
    Participant
    • Topics: 27
    • Replies: 121

    Hi all. I am looking at the Pro-Pack II and am confused about the ceramic stones. I see it includes the Micro Fine Micro Ceramic Stones(1.4 micron/.6 micron) but not the Super Fine Ceramic Stones(1200/1600). I don’t understand the jump to the Micro Fine from the included 1000 Grit Diamond Stones without first using the Super Fine Ceramics. Would I need to also consider including these stones when I am able to purchase. My goal is a hair whittling mirrored finish in the end! Thanks.

    For what it’s worth, I will offer my .02 worth. Which is really all it’s worth. I need to say that I am a new customer and new to sharpening and polishing, but having said that, I have got all the WEPS diamond stones from 50 to 1000 and the super and micro ceramics and strops 5>3.5>1>.5 and a kangaroo strop. I have been experimenting a bit but I have only had this total collection since yesterday when I got my super ceramic 1200-1600.

    A couple of things I have learned are that it takes more strokes than I thought it would from one grit to the next to get to the mirror stage successfully. You can definitely get there with the PP2 as it is, but your right there is a big gap. Today I re-profiled a new Buck 110 Hunter. I started with a new 50 grit diamond stone which is about like using a rasp file, especially in it’s new state. I went to the 1000 then to the 1200, then the 5 m paste on leather then the 3.5 m paste then on to the 1600 ceramic. At this point I see the scratches left by the progressive diamonds begin to become finer and not as deep. When I did not have the 1200-1600 I was working with much more coarse deeper scratches and it took a lot longer to remove them. So predictably, the 1200-1600 is a good stone to prep for a finer stone like the micro ceramic which is a glassy ceramic and more like a polishing stone than a sharpening stone in my opinion. The 1200-1600 is not a polishing stone in the sense that you will not see a mirror begin to emerge and has minimal sharpening qualities but it is a good in between stone.

    So it kind of comes down to how much time and energy and money you are you okay with spending to get to the mirror polishing stage. I have only sharpened four knives including an Elmax steel, ZT 560, ( a pretty hard steel). I have not actually achieved what I would call a perfect scratch free mirror shine yet but my blades are push sharp with the weight of the blade to cut copy paper and I can read reflected print when I put my blade on printed paper. Each successive knife however has been shinier and closer to the scratch free “perfect” mirror polish (to my eye). Like I said in the beginning, I am still learning how many strokes it takes to optimize each stones potential to prepare for the following stone.

    Not sure if I actually answered your question, but I am still in learning mode myself and thought it might be helpful for you to hear some of my limited experience. I am sure there are others here who can answer your question much better.

    #6495
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 350

    So predictably, the 1200-1600 is a good stone to prep for a finer stone like the micro ceramic which is a glassy ceramic and more like a polishing stone than a sharpening stone in my opinion.

    Thought I read to go to the coarse side of the micro ceramics “before” the 1200/1600, then back to the fine side of the micro ceramics?

    #6500
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    Thanks to everyone that has replied. I found a chart that might help . http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/fbbuploads/1316340409-Grit_Table.png If I am understanding this chart than 1000 grit stones = 7.0 microns, 1200 grit = 5.0 microns, 1600 grit = 2.8 microns (Super Fine Ceramics), and the Micro Fine Ceramics are 1.4 microns and .6 microns. If this is correct information than the Super Fine Ceramics might help to bridge the gap before the Micro Fine Ceramics.

    #6501
    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    One thing I’m not sure about, the ceramics are to be used dry correct? Not wet like an Arkansas stone?

    #6502
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    My understanding is that they are meant to be used dry.

    #6504
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2936

    One thing I’m not sure about, the ceramics are to be used dry correct? Not wet like an Arkansas stone?

    They can be used wet or dry and I alternate both methods a lot. If I’m looking for an extremely polished edge, I’ll use them wet. By wet I mean only slightly damp with soapy water.

    -Clay

    #6505
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    Thanks Clay. I will remember that method and hopefully try it someday.

    #6507
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Thanks to everyone that has replied. I found a chart that might help . http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/fbbuploads/1316340409-Grit_Table.png If I am understanding this chart than 1000 grit stones = 7.0 microns, 1200 grit = 5.0 microns, 1600 grit = 2.8 microns (Super Fine Ceramics), and the Micro Fine Ceramics are 1.4 microns and .6 microns. If this is correct information than the Super Fine Ceramics might help to bridge the gap before stropping?

    Is this the same information as found here?
    http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=74:grits-comparison-chart-for-the-wicked-edge-sharpener&catid=31:general&Itemid=46

    On the WE web site? I know the WE has less stones listed.

    #6508
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    Clay has the 1600 Superfine Ceramic listed as 2.85 micron as opposed to 2.8 micron on the other chart. Other than that they appear the same. The pictures are great on Clay’s chart.

    #6515
    Charles Rich
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 16

    The microfines seem to be a little too smooth for my kitchen knives, I won’t decide until I grab the 1200/1600.

    #6516
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 943

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/856708-The-Grand-Unified-Grit-Chart/page3

    Notice that for any given stone the actual grit size versus the grit size used varies widely. There is also the complication that there are multiple different ratings systems ANSI, JIS (old and new)and a couple of European ratings. If you want to see a wide divergence, just look at the 1000 Chosera versus the 1000 grit WEPS diamond plates. Even more interesting, look at the Edge Pro grits compared to the rest of the world..
    🙂

    #6520
    Joel Fiorentini
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 26

    I see what you are saying. If the micron rating listed for WE is accurate do you feel I would need to purchase the Super Fine Ceramics with the Pro-Pack II for an even transition before the stropping with the 1.0 micron and .5 micron stropps that are included?

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