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OTF Dagger Question

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  • #54740
    Lt. Hobbit
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    I have sharpened several dozen knives with my Wicked Edge and am absolutely impressed with the system and the results I have gotten with it. A close friend of mine has an OTF  knife with Dagger style blade he has asked to sharpen. Is there anything special or unique to this style blade I need to know before attempting this project?  He just wants a sharp knife with a mirror polished edge, not a big for me on a “standard” knife, getting the tip correct seems could be an issue if one is very careful. I did tell my buddy I had never sharpened this style blade, his response “you ain’t gonna learn any younger, you old bastard!!”  LOL So any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks Mac

    #54742
    000Robert
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 86

    Hello and welcome to the WE forum! It would help if you mentioned what type of OTF you have or included a photo of it. I have been moving away from OTF’s, but I do have a Boker Kalashnikov Auto with a dagger blade.

    • First, I would take the OTF apart so I could clamp the blade without the weight of the handle working against me (Open the handle inside a clear plastic bag just in case a spring or two tries to disappear on you).
    • Then clean the blade well with alcohol to make sure that no oil remains on it, and put some painters tape on the sides of the blade a little behind the edges.
    • Then clamp your dagger blade right under the center point of the body of the blade about the center of the blade lengthwise, depending on the curvature of the tip (If you try to clamp the blade right on the center point of the dagger blade it may slip a little one way or the other and not be perfectly straight up and down).
    • Then put your AAG on the clamp and record the settings for future reference, or take a photo of it as I do. That’s how I did it.
    •  Oh yeah, I remember now that I had my blade tip closer to the clamp so the stone would remove more of the sharpie marks and give a more consistent edge along the belly to the tip of the blade.

     

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by 000Robert. Reason: Remembered something
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by 000Robert.
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    #54744
    Lt. Hobbit
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    I am not sure what brand it is because there are no markings on it, it looks like it took it’s inspiration from the Benchmade Infidel. The picture no being here is another a valid point, I took a picture of the knife on my I-phone and when I tried to load it………well the computer advised me the attachment was to big to load……..I don’t know how to make the image smaller.  Not really a computer person.

    #54746
    000Robert
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 86

    I am not sure what brand it is because there are no markings on it, it looks like it took it’s inspiration from the Benchmade Infidel. The picture no being here is another a valid point, I took a picture of the knife on my I-phone and when I tried to load it………well the computer advised me the attachment was to big to load……..I don’t know how to make the image smaller. Not really a computer person.

    Do you have Windows? You can use MS Picture Manager to compress photos. Then get a free account with imgur.com. After you compress the photos you can upload them to Imgur, then click on the photo, copy the, “Direct Link”, then paste it in the URL box in the window that pops up when you click, “Select File”. I compress and rename photos with Power Point, but it is more involved.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by 000Robert.
    #54750
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 37
    • Replies: 1943

    Here’s another approach, if you have access to a chop/miter saw (not the type using a backsaw on a fixed fixture).

    Find the primary grind angle.  This is the angle from the centerline (ridge?) of the blade to the edge.  Probably on the order of 8 or 9 degrees.

    Find a piece of hardwood (maple or oak or other very hard wood) about 1.5 inches thick.  You can glue two pieces together if necessary.  You can also use a plastic if you can cut it without melting it.

    Set the chop saw to the same angle.

    Cut a very thin wedge from the hardwood; about 1/8″ or less thick at the base of the triangle.  Do it again, you’ll need two pieces.

    Trim the wedges so the triangles are about 3/4″ tall.

    Attach them using double-faced tape to the lower faces of the dagger where you have decided to clamp the blade.  If you’ve measure the angle correctly, the outer faces should be parallel and able to be clamped in the WE vise.  If you have a Gen 3 vise (with the cam action) you might need the optional jaws for blades greater than 1/4″ thick.

    Note that with the right equipment, you can make the wedges out of metal and keep them for future use.

    I guess it would also be possible to make a single wedge at double the angle.  Mount the blade in the vise so that it leans to the opposite side, being clamped between the wedge on one side and the primary grind face on the other.  The blade is leaning at the same angle as measured on the primary grinds.  Deduct the primary grind angle from the angle adjust on the wedge side and add it to the opposite side.

    To be clear, the primary grind angle is taken relative to the centerline of the blade.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #54760
    Lt. Hobbit
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    Did some research today and discovered it’s a “Legacy OTF 616-MDD (Mini-Damascus Dagger). And by research I mean I drove to the place he purchased it and asked “who the h&** made this knife?” LOL

    #54761
    000Robert
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 86

    It will be easier to keep the blade from trying to work out of the clamp if you remove the blade from the handle.

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