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My thumbnail test…

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  • #40804
    AIRon22
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    Hi all,

    Pretty new to sharpening. I’ve sharpened about 6 cheap knives on my WE sharpener so far. However, I’ve noticed something that I am wondering about. When I’ve finished, I typically will do the shave test, etc. Another thing I’ve done, is to see how it feels as I run the edge over the top of my thumbnail. The knives I’ve sharpened can shave hair, although not as easy as I’d like. One of my knives (Medford Knife and Tool) that was sharpened at the factory shaves hair extremely easily and as I run it across the top of my thumbnail it doesn’t catch at all…you wouldn’t even know it was that sharp. The ones I’ve sharpened are sharp, but not as sharp as the MKT, and they don’t necessarily catch on my thumbnail, but I can feel them cut deeper into my nail/give more resistance. Is there something I’m doing not quite right and am therefore getting these results?

    #40807
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2733

    First, welcome to the Forum.

    Your stones are probably still in the break-in period if you’ve only sharpened 6 knives.  The knives will get better and sharper as the stones wear more and your technique improves.  Sounds like your making good progress.  Welcome.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #40810
    Organic
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 929

    Welcome AlRon22!

    Like MarcH said, the diamond plates (and ceramic plates if you have those) will require some break in time. I didn’t fully believe that there would be a noticeable break-in period when I purchased my setup, but I can attest that there was a dramatic improvement in the refinement I was able to get that started on 7th knife that I sharpened. I would say that the significant improvements continued until the 10th knife and then from there has been more incremental improvements most likely related to improved technique and greater attention to detail. Keep at it and you’ll see what I’m talking about.

    Can you tell us a bit about the setup you have (which model WE, are you using strops, which stones you have)? There are some nuances specific to individual setups that we can direct you to if we know what you’re working with.

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    #40812
    AIRon22
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    Yes. As for specifics, I have the 2017 WE 120 model. I have used a sharpie on the bevels and have a used the 800 grit stone to make sure I’m on the correct angle. Then I proceed to either the 100 or 200 grit stone and raise a bur (wire edge as the manual describes).  I must say that I can typically raise a bur quickly on the middle portion of the blade, but near the heel and the tip, it seems to take me longer. I then will make a bur on the other side. From there, I just progress through the stones from 400-1000 alternating strokes. I must say that my technique seems to be getting more consistent…I was  using more of a diagonal stroke–(i.e. away, then up) but I’ve changed that to more of the traditional up and then away from me. I have found it difficult to know when to go to the next stone.  Although I’ve only sharpened 6 knives or so, I feel like I have put the stones to use. Perhaps patience is the key here. Any pointers would be great! I appreciate what’s already been pointed out in other posts.

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    #40829
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Welcome aboard AlRon22. The guys are right about the break-in period – it’s more important than people realize. As for the way your Medford knife performs, I’d venture a guess that it has a pretty highly polished, wide angle on it which allows it to shave easily but which doesn’t offer much bite into your nail. Once your stones are broken in, a 1000 grit finish should offer you both fairly easy shaving and considerable bite. You can always tune your edge to be optimized for more tooth/bite or better shaving based on how you finish them.

    -Clay

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    #40830
    Organic
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 929

    I think that you’ll find some good information about when to switch grits in this thread.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #40833
    AIRon22
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    Thanks everyone for the information. Clay–you’re definitely right. Looking at my MKT blade, it has a mirror finish on the edge. As for the angle—not real sure. There’s absolutely no way I’ll be putting the sharpie on that and testing it–that’s for sure. I’ll be waiting for more experience before that goes near the jaws of the vice. LoL! I’ve called Greg Medford and spoke directly to him (awesome guy, btw) and could probably ask the angle he sharpens them at. I definitely need to read up on when to switch stones. Thanks for the link.

    #40836
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Welcome to the forum! As you’ve already noticed, people are very willing to help each other here. So if you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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    #40908
    sksharp
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 408

    Welcome AlRon22,

    I’ve got 150 knives or so on my stones now (50 thru 1500) and I think they get better with every knife I do still. Some of it is experience and technique but those stones get better with use.

    Switching stones? TCMeyer had a good observation I think, when he wants a more refined edge he uses 2 or 3 times more passes with each stone. You just need to find what works for you and what you want from a particular knife.

    #40913
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    There’s absolutely no way I’ll be putting the sharpie on that and testing it–that’s for sure.

    If you do it carefully, you’ll fully remove the sharpie ink from the blade during sharpening.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #40918
    Organic
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 929

    Also, a little bit of acetone on a cotton ball will remove sharpie if you manage to get it on an area of the blade where you don’t want it.

    #40924
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2733

    I find 91% rubbing alcohol also removes the sharpie from knives.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #40947
    AIRon22
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    You guys are great. Such quick responses and a plethora of good info.

    Perhaps this should go into a different thread so that others might find it, but I’m going to ask it anyways…2 questions:

    1. Is it normal to see the scratches in the bevel angled towards the tip of the knife? I am assuming it is, due to the ‘up and away motion’. I only ask because when I look at factory sharpened knives, the scratch pattern seems to be straight vertical (not angling towards the heel or tip)

    2. Another type of scratch–I’ve been sharpening some real cheapies starting out, and I’ve noticed that I’ve scratched the sides of nearly every blade I’ve done—I thing I might have corrected it, but haven’t tried a different knife yet. Could that be due to not having the stone flat against the blade as you go up and away?

    #40948
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2733

    All I can share with you without seeing photos of the clamped knife up close, is how I  scratched my knives while sharpening them.  Probably the most common way that I scratch one is while wiping it to clear the sharpening debris so I can get a close look at the edge.  The paper towel or cloth towel picks up metal filings and trash and as I drag it across the knife I have scratched it.  Sometimes I had scratched the knife with the WE clamp.  Then I started placing a small patch of leather chamois between the knife and the clamp.  That, for me improved my clamping holding the knife more securely and protected it.  The down side is sharpening dust and debris falls down and can be trapped between the chamois and the knife in turn scratching the knife as I handled the knife while unclamping.

    I’ve scratched knives by dropping the stone mounted on the rod against the knife.  I’ve scratched knives with the stone sliding across the side of the knife not being careful what I was doing.  I believe I have scratched knives because I had small metal filings on my finger tips that I hadn’t realized, just while handling the knife.

    Still the most frequent way I still scratch the bevel as I am sharpening is wiping sharpening debris off the bevel shoulder as I clean the sharpened edge to view it for my sharpening progress.  This debris just falls down as sharpening dust as I’m sharpening and lays or sticks there on the slightly raised crisp shoulder until I pick it up in my wiping towel.  I find that if I wipe vertically up first it doesn’t spread so bad and only scratches a small spot if It’s going to scratch.  I use a clean part of the towel immediately after the initial wipe up.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

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    #40949
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    I agree with MarcH. I can imagine two other reasons. First of all you may (unconsciously) change your technique when coming near the tip. See here: http://howto.wickededgeusa.com/knowledge-base/setting-the-teeth/. Secondly (related to the first reason) is that you haven’t right positioned of your knife yet (found the “sweet spot”). The edge in the curved places may then look different from the rest of the edge. Although it’s a bit unclear to me why you see scratches there and not for example a wided bevel. See here: href=”http://howto.wickededgeusa.com/knowledge-base/does-the-angle-change-along-the-length-of-longer-blades-on-the-wicked-edge/.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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