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Mounting a knife

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 47 total)
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  • #45620
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    I have been using painters tape, it’s plain right now just for illustration. If I don’t get frustrated and pack it up, then I’ll pick up some chamois tomorrow.

    #45621
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    I did see from a previous post from MarcH “For me the micro-adjustment screws rarely are in the same position when set to an equal angle, and verified with an angle cube”

    Thanks to all, a few questions…

    As far as hitting the jaws, I’ll check how far back I have the blade. It seems like with small knives, there is very little wiggle room. I think I was concentrating way too much on making sure these small knives touch the depth key. Looking at the vise again, the knife was too low and too far back, so very little blade towards the front where the stones were hitting the front jaw. I think this would work better:

    This one looks pretty good.  You could raise the knife up higher still and further forward in the clamp so it touches the bolster

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45622
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    Almost as far as I can go. I do see the four teeth go the length of the jaw, gives me a little better idea of how to place the knife. No offense, but placing the knife on the guide pins is a bad recommendation. I think that would only fit certain knives. It’s almost an art on it’s own how to place the blade properly. I can see if this works where the AAG would help for future placement.

    #45623
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    I have been using painters tape, it’s plain right now just for illustration. If I don’t get frustrated and pack it up, then I’ll pick up some chamois tomorrow.

    Hang in there.  It can be frustrating.  Especially for us perfectionist.  That’s why we bought this system because we want the best.  Painters tape is OK.  I found it would sometimes compress and shift my blade.

    There are limitations to the size and style the clamps can grip.  The Low Angle Adapter helps.  Also the Tormek Small Knife Holder

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45624
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    Honestly, the benchmade mini grip 3″ is my smallest and one of my preferred. Everything else is 3.5 or larger. So, blades like the kershaw leek that I use for practice, I honestly don’t care about sharpening. I want to be able to use this (WE) without all sorts of odds and ends adapters or I’d rather just stick with the KME which works without all the adapters and fuss.

    #45625
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    You could still use the AAG with the pins, even though it’s above the pin holes.  Take a picture so you have the visual record.  There is indeed an art and skill to clamping knives.  You put it together after sharpening a hundred different knives of different sizes and shapes. LOL

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45626
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    oh ya, I figured you can use the AAG with pins (keeping track of top or bottom). I’ve already learned how to sharpen the jaws…

    #45627
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    Honestly, the benchmade mini grip 3″ is my smallest and one of my preferred. Everything else is 3.5 or larger. So, blades like the kershaw leek that I use for practice, I honestly don’t care about sharpening. I want to be able to use this (WE) without all sorts of odds and ends adapters or I’d rather just stick with the KME which works without all the adapters and fuss.

    I can see your point.  I think you need to call up Josh from Razors Edge Knives and speak with him.  Tell him your dilemma and ask what he suggests. I’m sure he’ll give you a few minutes of his time.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45628
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    oh ya, I figured you can use the AAG with pins (keeping track of top or bottom). I’ve already learned how to sharpen the jaws…

    I suggest you take the Sharpie Marker to the scratched Jaws. Paint them all black.  That lets you see any new scrapes as your clamping a new knife.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45629
    sksharp
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 397

    OK now we’re cooking with gas! Some knives, like Benchmades, have unusual grinds that can make them difficult to clamp straight and some of them just won’t. You have to use chamois or moleskin or something like that so you can grip the blade with a very small area. If you simply can’t get the knife to set perfectly vertical then you have to adjust for the cant. Sitting behind the knife clamped, if the blade leans to the right move the right adjustment in a deg. or 2 and the left adjustment out the same. Then pay close attention as you scrub in or start sharpening and move the adjusters to where you need them to even the bevel. Also you can clamp some of these knives so the blade will move side to side, caused by the contact area hitting a high spot on the blade with nothing below or above the contact point. Clamping the knife securely is paramount for results and chamois or moleskin will help with that.

    There are so many knives out there with uneven or unusual grinds that it makes clamping some of them a challenge but I haven’t run into one that I couldn’t yet. I am a little surprised that you would tackle those knives first without having attempted a few easy cheap knives first. Check your machine by putting in a knife with a even grind and make sure that your machine doesn’t have any issues.

    If you are doubting the machine then get some knives in there that are easy to clamp, IE… most kitchen knives are fairly straight forward to clamp. Then you would at least know whether it’s the machine or not.

    I have run into some knives that require the tormek small knife adapter. That little rig takes the clamp out of play, repeatability is a issue but it works.

    Let us know if any of this helps! You posted while I was responding last time so thanks for the additional info.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #45633
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    Coming from the KME, where there are no gaps in the clamp jaws and it’s a full rubber insert, I guess it’s hard for me to go from, no offense, an easier clamping system to a finicky clamping system that might need add on’s. Don’t get me wrong, I wouldn’t have dropped over a grand to make this work but I expected a lot. Here’s what I’m used to working with, same knife and actually the one I couldn’t get to work on the WE this morning, now a work in progress on the KME.

    #45634
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    You’ll never learn how to use the WE if you keep giving up and going back to the old system you’re use to.  “New shoes” my friend.  If you don’t wear them they’ll always hurt your feet.  Take SKSharp’s advice.  Learn with an easier grind, shape and size knife.  I’m sure you didn’t learn how to drive on a Ferrari.  (I love similes.)

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    #45636
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    I did use my kitchen knife to start which I could take that for another round. Funny thing is, all my knives are difficult except for the kitchen knife. I have the benchmade 808 and 818, mini grip and full size grip sheepsfoot, then the leek which is worse. There is no easy, it goes from training wheels to ferrari.

    • This reply was modified 2 years ago by Roikyou.
    #45639
    Roikyou
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 18

    Which thinking about that big 3.7 inch thick knife, that could be a good training knife.

    #45640
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 59
    • Replies: 2041

    I guess it boils down to whether you want the WE.  It’s not for everyone.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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