Hello from PA

[cbwx34]

I beat you to it. I emailed Clay when this came up… he just answered me a bit ago.

The current arms in the PPI (or original arms) are still the slightly smaller diameter, so you may be able to fit the straws over them. It’ll be that way unti they get thru the current batch.

You’re also correct, they’re going to start checking and modding the arms that have excessive play before they ship.

[Phil Pasteur]

I beat you to it. I emailed Clay when this came up… he just answered me a bit ago.
The current arms in the PPI (or original arms) are still the slightly smaller diameter, so you may be able to fit the straws over them. It’ll be that way unti they get thru the current batch.
You’re also correct, they’re going to start checking and modding the arms that have excessive play before they ship.

Now that is good info, right from the source. Being me, I would wonder what “have excessive play” means.. and if Clay may be opening Pandora’s box. Will some people be unhappy because the joints they recieve have no washers…:S ??
(Even though they may not have “excessive play” according to some as yet unspecified criteria).

Phil

[Walter McVey]

Hey, thanks for the update. This is exactly as I had suspected, except I have no way of knowing how much NOS of the thinner rods they had on hand.

Thank you very much for running this down for me.

Walt

[cbwx34]

Now that is good info, right from the source. Being me, I would wonder what “have excessive play” means.. and if Clay may be opening Pandora’s box. Will some people be unhappy because the joints they recieve have no washers…:S ??
(Even though they may not have “excessive play” according to some as yet unspecified criteria).
Phil

I don’t think so… I would say “all” but some don’t need them. My own arms were an example… I didn’t think the play was much, but I took them up last time I went. We put washers in, they were so tight after, we took washers out. 🙂

So, if it’ll take a washer, I’m pretty sure it’ll get one. 🙂

[Phil Pasteur]

You, Curtis, I judge to be a rational person, as well as a pragmatist. Not sure about that being the case for everyone. From you post, even though your joints did not need them, you felt that it was neccessary to try adding washers. I am sure that, if the joints need washers, they will get them. I haven’t seen Clay do anything that he did not do his absolute best to do right. That is not what I was talking about. I was talking about perception …and how many phone calls, email messages, and postings here may result when the folks that think modded is better, regardless, end up getting joints with no washers.

I hope you are right when you say “I don’t think so…”!
Just an anecdote, a recall of some recent events…
We replaced monitors at our corporate office a while back. We got two different brands because I could not get 160 of the exact same kind quickly enough to make the schedule. All of them had the same resolution and were the same size. Refresh rates and DPI, identical, every spec that anyone could actually percieve, the same. I got nailed in the hall on numerous occasions with people unhappy because they didn’t have penguins on their monitor. Us humans often neglect reality and worry more about what someone else got, rather than functional equivalency.

We shall see.

Phil

[wickededge]

We’re adding washers to all of them, even if it means we have to trim the rods down a little to create space. For now, the rods are the same diameter they’ve been for the last run, about 0.235″

-Clay

[Walter McVey]

Thank you Clay, this is exactly what I thought. But I thought I should ask the question.

I’m looking forward to receiving my WE and getting started.

Ordered two additional knives in preparation of my new tool:

Picked up a used Strider SnG nib condition and a Kershaw Camp 10 monster.

[wickededge]

Hey Walter,

Those are nice knives that will take a great edge. Here is a really nice page on our Wiki that Curtis put together which is really helpful: Getting Started I think it is a really handy guide to getting yourself properly oriented to the machine.

-Clay

[Walter McVey]

Thanks for the suggestions Clay. I have been looking through the Wiki and I did come accross that page. Really good stuff.

By the way, I bought the Strider as I wanted at least one knife that cost more than my sharpener. I’m not sure what I would have gotten had I opted for the PPII.

Can’t wait to get started.

[Walter McVey]

I wanted to update all on my WE journey since my last post. Unfortunately, I had to cancel my first order a couple of months ago before it was filled due to some family stuff that came up. I have been married for 32 years, and I doubt if I would have seen 33 had I not canceled it. I will not get into if this would be good or bad. Then, I have been sucessful at justifying the price of a good knife sharpening system for my work (don’t ask). So I was able to order a ProII with case (the case is great buy the way, albiet very pricy) as transporting this to various locations and to the field will be required. Well my WE arrived last Friday, and I got to practicing on Saturday. First up was a 1980 vintage Gerber folding lockblade. I should add that the ceramic stones were back ordered, so these were not supplied in the case. I also got an email confirmation last Friday that these have been shipped. I put a 20 degree edge on the Gerber that was so-so, but the stones were brand new and very aggressive. I then sharpened about 5 junk kitchen knives also at 20 degrees. All came out with an OK edge, and all were similar. I then took a half serrated Browning (junk) pocket knife that I had carried years ago, and put a 20 degree on the plain half of this blade (I use this to cut my paracord on my bench. I had this blade very sharp freehand through Spyderco ultrafine ceramic stone). This blade came to a bur pretty quickly as I must have been very close to 20 degrees freehand. After going through the progression and stropping with 1 and 0.5 micron after the 1K grit diamond,this blade was extremely sharp. I sharpened this paying particular attention to the amount of pressure I was using, trying to apply only as much as is required to control the stones and the strop. I did this from 200 grit on up, and I could not be happier with the results.

Next up was a Benchmade Griptillian that I had very sharp freehand through Spyderco UF ceramic with a tanto blade (I can freehand tantos very well as there are only two fixed angles to deal with. curved changing angles has always been my weakness). This is an EDC everything cutter that I carry left handed. I carry an EDC tactical in my RH pocket that I never use except for an emergancy (I hope I only have to sharpen this one once). I was extremely pleased with the 19 degree edge that I got on the Grip. Probably due to the more obtuse angle than factory, but this knife came out very sharp

A friend of mine gave me his old Shrade fixed blade hunter that he said he could not get an edge on to save his life freehand. This knife is probably circa 1975, and has probably field dressed hundreds of whitetails. The knife had been freehand sharpened since new, and was very convex and thick at the apex (hence no edge). This is a 4″ blade that I mounted about a half inch forward on the WE vise. I wanted an acute edge towards the tip for fine cutting and skinning shores, but a more obtuse edge towards the handle for pelvis splitting duty. I put a 19 degree bevel until a bur formed the length of the knife (removed a bunch of steel). Then sharpened it completely through 0.5 micron strop (extremely sharp heel to tip). Then I put a 22 degree micro bevel on it hoping that the edge would hold up better for him. I will see how this setup will work for him. I may have to increase the angle a bit for edge retention purposes on subsequent sharpenings, but I thought that I would give this a try.

The only problem I had was that the fixed jaw of the vised came loose. I had to remove the WE from the base and tighten this. Since I purchased the WE with the case, Clay’s shop had assembled everything and packed it in the case (again this is a very nice case). I suggest that WE put a little locktight on the screw that holds the fixed jaw of the vise for all units that they assemble. This was not a huge deal, but it did come loose on the hunting knife I described above while working on the secondary bevel. I fixed it and remounted the knife for the application of the tertiary bevel, so no harm done.

All and all, I could not be happier with the results so far. And I would like to give a great big thank you to Keith Parker for the spreadsheet. This makes tracking the settings on the computer very easy. I do not think that I would have spent this much of my own money on this system (ProPacII, I know this is all relative), but since I am a born again knife nut (in three months I have been able to aquire 14 new knives). I am very happy to have this system available to me. I look forward to improving mys skills with it and improving my results. I was able to get 9 knives sharpened over the weekend.

I do have one question for mark76. My son (married and expecting a baby) is really into cooking and has a number of very good cooking knives. One is a cleaver with convex edge. Since you have a cleaver on your avitar locked and loaded, I was wondering what type of edge you sharpen this? Do you put a 3 or 4 angle (18, 19, 20,…) sharpening and strop the edges to convex, or do you go with a straight bevel? If you go with the former, at what angle(s) do you strop the finished edge? I really want to learn how to master the convex on the WE as I think that this is the best edge for survival knives, of which I have a few. Did I mention that the case is very nice?

[Author]

Posts