GREAT LUBRICANT FOR WES !

[DARRELL ALLEN]

[/quote]I got my precision bottles in and tried them with the lube. They work great! I put the smallest of the needles on and went to work on a Swiss Army knife with way to many gizmos. I was able to drop the smallest amounts on exactly the joints I wanted. This has turned out to be a winning combo! :woohoo:[/quote]

Sweeeet ! I just ordered me a couple of them yesterday, should have them by Friday or so and can’t wait to try them out. Thanks again Jed for posting that link to them. 🙂

[DARRELL ALLEN]

Others are using it to lube the knife/tool that they are working on.

How did you come up with that statement Johnny? I must have missed that part somehow.

[/quote]

Look at the very top post on this page and some of the one’s on the other page.[/quote]

Yep, what Johnny said…………when I started this thread, there was no mention of oiling stones ? I simply stated that what I found worked very well…….at least for me, on the ball joint itself on the paddle arms, and on the actual stainless rods you slide the diamond paddles on……….others had said it worked great as well as a lube for knives themselves………..not sure how this thread got misinterpreted as using oil ?? :unsure:

[DARRELL ALLEN]

For the diamonds on the WEPS, I would rather just wipe them with a dry rag or tap them on a table top to knock loose metal off of them than to use any kind of oil to clean them.

[/color][/b]

Philip, I use just compressed air to blow away the metal particles from the diamond stones, as well as wiping them dry ( I wipe first then use the air to blow dry and remove metal shavings ) as I also use Clay’s suggestion of the soapy suds to ” trap ” the metal particles when sharpening…….that works great, thanks for that get tip Clay ! 🙂

[Phil Pasteur]

Johnny wrote:

Look at the very top post on this page and some of the one’s on the other page.

Darrell wrote:

…others had said it worked great as well as a lube for knives themselves………..not sure how this thread got misinterpreted as using oil ?? :unsure:

I see the confusion.. for me on the knife part. People said it works on the pivots for folders. I get that, and am going to get some to try. I don’t think that this is what I read from Johnny… as in using it on the blade… especially as ApexGS had already brought up oiling his diamond stones.

The written language has it’s limitations… more soo when done in snippets where the assumption is that everyone just KNOWS what the writer means.
🙁

So hopefully we can agree, no one has talked about using this Teflon dry lube for sharpening, other than lubing parts of the WEPS.

Darrell… It is pretty amazing how threads wander around here. (actually on most discussion boards).
Also amazing what we end up learning when it is free form.

When I completely clean the diamond paddles, I also blow them off with compressed air, then wash them in soapy hot water and use a stiff nail brush to get any remaining stuff off of them. In between those times I just dry wipe them. If always used dry, on a clean, dry knife blade, there is not much that will not come off with a dry rag.

[John Genovese]

LOL. I can see how that could be confusing. You are correct, by knife, I meant joints.

I watched a video the other day of a guy using soapy water on his WEPS diamond paddles. He claimed it kept the filing dust down. I’ll see if I can find it again and post it in a new thread.

[Tom Whittington]

Haha, we really got ourselves confused in here! Part of it is my fault for bringing up using light oil as a quick-clean on the stones. It’s not necessary by a long shot and a proper cleaning with soapy water will certainly do a better job. I just use the oil and dab it clean when it’s getting really loaded up and I don’t have time to clean properly. I have to stress the importance of a light oil, because anything that will get gummy will just make it that much harder to clean later on.

I started doing that after seeing some of Clay’s info on using soapy water to catch particles while sharpening. I think the first mention was on a youtube video on his channel, but it’s come up here on the forums before, too. I like the idea of keeping the particles from getting all over my work area, but I honestly had not considered the slurry being detrimental to the finish. In my case I very rarely polish beyond 1000 grit, so it might not be a problem at all for me and my usage.

Additionally I try to keep Teflon (PTFE) based lubricants away from places they don’t belong. Teflon got really big in the gun world many years ago, so everyone and everything had Teflon in it for a while… until people started to notice that it wasn’t useful or was outright bad in some applications. Teflon doesn’t like heat for example, so burning off oil with Teflon in it actually releases some nasty fumes! The oil I use for my impromptu cleaning is 100% vegetable based, just in case!

Man, all this talk reminds me to clean my stones good and proper 🙂

[DARRELL ALLEN]

I like the idea of keeping the particles from getting all over my work area, but I honestly had not considered the slurry being detrimental to the finish. In my case I very rarely polish beyond 1000 grit, so it might not be a problem at all for me and my usage.

Apex, I have been using Clay’s soapy film tip ever since I found and I agree with you, it sure does help keep the metal dust / filings down ! 🙂 After 1000 grit, I go to the Super Fine 1200/1600 ceramics, then the Micro Fine ceramics, then leather strop, and finish off with the Balsa strops with diamond paste……….I don’t seem to be having trouble with the slurry as my blades polish up pretty good…but I also wipe my edge down first with a paper towel, then with a microfiber towel,between each and every grit up from the 100/200 paddles…..and once I get to the ceramics and strops, I also wipe with an alcohol pad just to make 100% certain I’m not cross contaminating my paddles…..seems to work great for me and what I’m trying to achieve. 😉

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