got these 3 tickets last week

[tuffy braithwaite]

Thanks for the information! I am going to pick up a variable speed since I need to shape and sharpen my lathe bits so I need to slow it down a bit for that. But that is far and few in between..

So now the question is 6″ or 8″. If I am going to get those extenders you linked to…those look great!

I am guessing it would make more sense to have the 8″ with the 1hp motor so I can throw buffing wheels on there and not bog it down so much. If you have the 8″ version I am guessing you can always put the 6″ wheels on it right?
I am just not real familiar with what kind of options are out there for wheels where I may be causing myself more problems by going with the 8″ to get more power and then all the cool gadgets are made for a 6″ setup or something.

Thanks for the help!
Eric

,
,
if i had it all to over again from the beginning, i would go with 8″
plenty of accessories around for 6 8 & 10″.

[Zamfir]

Great. I will get me a Delta variable speed 8″ on the way and those long arm adapters!

Next will have to be a 2×72 belt grinder I can use a cool mist setup on. In a year or so..Gonna need to save up some pennies for that!

[CliffCurry]

Guess I’m a little late to the discussion but wanted to pitch in with a few things I’ve used & found useful so far.

Similar to the nylon bristles I’ve been using scotch brite pads a picked up at an auto body supply and cut to circle.

The course pad will leave refined uniform scratches while the ultra will almost leave a satin finish that doesn’t take much to buff up to mirror like.

Thanks to you guys just learned about extension rods and nylon… Must have on the short list! 😀

Here’s my low tech washers on a basic variable speed buffer I’ve been using to hold the thin pads in place. LOL

[tuffy braithwaite]

cliff

i used the same type of wire wheel for sometime, but in bronze and then i discovered the red nylon.

BUT……………I LIKE YOUR YELLOW buffing wheel’s width………….where can i get a wide one like that………….i use two 1/2″ or 3/4″ ones now mashed together.???

[CliffCurry]

Thanks Tuffy, I had started with the wire wheel when I was first getting setup but find the course finish isnt nice for most indoor items. I picked up a 2 pack of buffing pads from Lowes when I purchased the ginder, and I have a “fluffy” wheel with no side stitching I grabbed at Ace Hardware for final polish with red compound if I go that far. All 3 are thicker like this.

Besides putting an amazing edge on a knife, nothing seems to bring more satisfaction then taking a beat up looking old thing and bringing it back to shiny when I return it to a customer. 15min with the wheels really transoms them and I think the perceived value and appreciation for the work done is much higher too.

[Zamfir]

Okdoke..Santa just bought me a Delta variable speed 8″ grinder…
And those awesome extra long shaft adapters –Thanks for the link!
And the serrated knife sharpening kit from Josh..

then I can tackle them dang Cutco serrated knives that keep coming my way..and them serrated spydercos..

Now I need to figure out what buffing wheels to get and where to get that cool nylon scrubber brush.. :whistle:
Any suggestions for the beginner buffer/serration fixer?

thanks for the help guys!

-Eric

[tuffy braithwaite]

And the serrated knife sharpening kit from Josh..

then I can tackle them dang Cutco serrated

-Eric

What is josh kit?

[Zamfir]

This thinggermajig here. http://www.razoredgeknives.com/?page_id=12

[tuffy braithwaite]

This thinggermajig here. http://www.razoredgeknives.com/?page_id=12%5B/quote%5D
.
.
kewl beans – thanks

i had seen that video many months ago, but no offer at that time for the kit….i might have to save my pennies.

i use side of the kally belts now – does pretty good.

thanks again

[Gregg776]

Hope it works for you.

Question: What did you use to lift the rust out of the deep pits? Wire wheel? Chemicals?

I know they’ve got all sorts of metal treatments that’ll stop rust dead in its tracks, but it doesn’t actually remove the rust.

Tom,
Have you tried electroplating the rust off? All that is needed is a small automotive battery charger, some washing soda, a suitable anode and a jar. Suspend the knife blade connected to the negative charger output in a suitable jar or plastic container filled most of the way with dilute solution of washing soda so the handle won’t get soaked; put an anode (connected to the positive charger output so that it won’t touch the item being de-rusted; and turn it on. It will take a few hours to a few days depending on the voltage and how much rust needs to be removed, but it will take all of it out of the pits and not eat away the non-rusted steel. It shouldn’t hurt brass but may discolor aluminum and certainly isn’t good for wood or leather handles. The pits will still be there unfortunately.
Google “electrolytic rust removal” and you will find tons of information.
-Gregg

[tuffy braithwaite]

this is posted on the forum where we post our treasure finds.
.
.
.
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http://www.thetreasuredepot.com/LIBRARY1/electrolysis.html

[tcmeyer]

I haven’t really had a need to do more than very small spots, but was interested in how you’d do it for knives, as I’d seen some nasty pits, too, like Tuffy’s KA-BAR

[Mark76]

This thinggermajig here. http://www.razoredgeknives.com/?page_id=12%5B/quote%5D

Jeez, I must have missed this when Josh first let us know of this. It seems like a great system, Josh! And it’s a great video too! Many thanks!

And also thanks for pointing out, Zamfir.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Author]

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