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First tanto! ZT0620cf M390

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  • #22995
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Just did a quick sharpening job on my ZT0620CF. Didn’t spend a lot of time so there are still a few small scratches in there but the main thing is that it really wasn’t that hard to not round off the tip. If you do it as Clay says in his vid and sharpen the two angles as if they’re two different blades its really easy. Turned out pretty good I think! What do u guys think?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #22996
    JS
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 109

    Looks really good. When I do a tanto I also do them separately. I do the main edge first from start to finish then reposition the tip parallel to the base, measure my angles and then go from start to finish.

    #22999
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Looks good!!

    #23003
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    You did a nice job on that Tanto! They are purdy!!

    I think they are one of the mostest dumbist blade designs ever…except they look real cool and will pierce real good..

    Did I mention I do not like Tantos? 😛

    https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forum/12-tips-for-specific-knife-grinds-and-styles/13321-tanto-worst-blade-design-ever

    #23019
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Looks goooooood, man!

    Would you mind sharing the progression?

    You should check out this video of Modifiedz finishing up a Hinderer Aggressor tanto! Scrub to 08:18 if you’re impatient and just want to see the edge 🙂

    #23031
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Sure. I’ve seen modifiedz video. Actually…I’ve seen all of them. Lol. I started through all of the diamonds 100-1000 (well broken in stones). Then to the ceramics (super fine) & (micro fine). Then to strops (5 micron & 3.5 on balsa) ….1 & .5 on kangaroo…..125 spray and .050 spray on nano cloth. Makes a super sharp edge. I’ve also lapped my ceramics which helped a pile.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #23035
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Sure. I’ve seen modifiedz video. Actually…I’ve seen all of them. Lol. I started through all of the diamonds 100-1000 (well broken in stones). Then to the ceramics (super fine) & (micro fine). Then to strops (5 micron & 3.5 on balsa) ….1 & .5 on kangaroo…..125 spray and .050 spray on nano cloth. Makes a super sharp edge. I’ve also lapped my ceramics which helped a pile.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Ah, man, I need to stop messing around and just buy the balsa and kangaroo! I really think I’m missing out… Like BIG TIME!

    Thanks for sharing :cheer:

    #23041
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Sure. I’ve seen modifiedz video. Actually…I’ve seen all of them. Lol. I started through all of the diamonds 100-1000 (well broken in stones). Then to the ceramics (super fine) & (micro fine). Then to strops (5 micron & 3.5 on balsa) ….1 & .5 on kangaroo…..125 spray and .050 spray on nano cloth. Makes a super sharp edge. I’ve also lapped my ceramics which helped a pile.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Ah, man, I need to stop messing around and just buy the balsa and kangaroo! I really think I’m missing out… Like BIG TIME!

    Thanks for sharing :cheer:[/quote]
    Yea…the balsa is amazing when used on the 5 and 3.5 paste. That phase shows more “to the eye” results than any of the other strops.

    #23096
    Dennis Hibar
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 100

    Thanks for posting that one! I don’t own any tanto blades …. some of my others in the collection take long enough to the edge right!! Arthritis in my hands is getting worse by the year, so everything I do on the WE is now very slow and precise … to prevent the unintentional slip up (you know, too much pressure, letting a paddle slip from my grip!!!). So what used to take me a half hour to an hour, now takes considerably more time. The most time consuming (which I can almost liken to the sharpening strategy with a tanto blade) is my LionSteel PM1. Not only does it have a compound grind, but the added difficulty of a slight recurve before the thicker belly toward the tip! Right now, I have it where I want it (after many hours of labor). Not fully mirror polished yet, but a very even bevel (which required 20 degrees per side at the thinner recurve … readjust the blade position … and then 22 degrees at the thicker belly toward the tip.

    #23097
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Both of these came out very nice. Good job guys

    #23102
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    So what was your process to determine where, and how much to change the angle? Was it all just trial and error as you were doing the re-bevel? Or, all sharpie trick and just followed the same edge and found you had to change up the angle to get that?

    Beautiful work! And nice looking knife!

    What is the purpose of that style of grind? Is it just aesthetics? Or is there a functional reasoning behind the grind style? I know it would be hard to create but not sure why it would be created. It sure is pretty looking!

    Hopefully Clay will be doing some testing on Balsa with some pictures so we will conclusively know how differently it acts than leather. I sent out 4 different density balsa strops to him to test out. Balsa has different grades of harness. I am guessing he will like the heavy density out of the 4. But just a guess. Light, medium, heavy, and extra heavy densities. It is amazing how drastic the difference is between the different grades of balsa!

    I also love the way Balsa feels and how it performs. I seem to have better luck loading it and it seems to keep the compound useful for a longer period of time. BUT..This is all just a gut feel and opinion. I have no data or pictures to back it up. I hope some day we do have some by the experts!

    Thanks for posting that one! I don’t own any tanto blades …. some of my others in the collection take long enough to the edge right!! Arthritis in my hands is getting worse by the year, so everything I do on the WE is now very slow and precise … to prevent the unintentional slip up (you know, too much pressure, letting a paddle slip from my grip!!!). So what used to take me a half hour to an hour, now takes considerably more time. The most time consuming (which I can almost liken to the sharpening strategy with a tanto blade) is my LionSteel PM1. Not only does it have a compound grind, but the added difficulty of a slight recurve before the thicker belly toward the tip! Right now, I have it where I want it (after many hours of labor). Not fully mirror polished yet, but a very even bevel (which required 20 degrees per side at the thinner recurve … readjust the blade position … and then 22 degrees at the thicker belly toward the tip.

    #23103
    Dennis Hibar
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 100

    So what was your process to determine where, and how much to change the angle? Was it all just trial and error as you were doing the re-bevel? Or, all sharpie trick and just followed the same edge and found you had to change up the angle to get that?

    Same process I use on any knife when can’t use my goniometer to determine the edge bevel …. sharpie it up, guestimate an overly obtuse angle, then narrow it down to where I want it with my angle cube. Settled on 20 dps on the nightmare grind. When I finished that, moved to the thicker belly. I think I did the test swipes at around 24 …. then found that 22 matched the bevel on the thinner portion of that recurved nightmare grind. Last month marked my third year with the WE. Still love it …. but I’d still be struggling without a sharpie and angle cube!!

    #23133
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    So what was your process to determine where, and how much to change the angle? Was it all just trial and error as you were doing the re-bevel? Or, all sharpie trick and just followed the same edge and found you had to change up the angle to get that?

    Beautiful work! And nice looking knife!

    What is the purpose of that style of grind? Is it just aesthetics? Or is there a functional reasoning behind the grind style? I know it would be hard to create but not sure why it would be created. It sure is pretty looking!

    Hopefully Clay will be doing some testing on Balsa with some pictures so we will conclusively know how differently it acts than leather. I sent out 4 different density balsa strops to him to test out. Balsa has different grades of harness. I am guessing he will like the heavy density out of the 4. But just a guess. Light, medium, heavy, and extra heavy densities. It is amazing how drastic the difference is between the different grades of balsa!

    I also love the way Balsa feels and how it performs. I seem to have better luck loading it and it seems to keep the compound useful for a longer period of time. BUT..This is all just a gut feel and opinion. I have no data or pictures to back it up. I hope some day we do have some by the experts!

    Thanks for posting that one! I don’t own any tanto blades …. some of my others in the collection take long enough to the edge right!! Arthritis in my hands is getting worse by the year, so everything I do on the WE is now very slow and precise … to prevent the unintentional slip up (you know, too much pressure, letting a paddle slip from my grip!!!). So what used to take me a half hour to an hour, now takes considerably more time. The most time consuming (which I can almost liken to the sharpening strategy with a tanto blade) is my LionSteel PM1. Not only does it have a compound grind, but the added difficulty of a slight recurve before the thicker belly toward the tip! Right now, I have it where I want it (after many hours of labor). Not fully mirror polished yet, but a very even bevel (which required 20 degrees per side at the thinner recurve … readjust the blade position … and then 22 degrees at the thicker belly toward the tip.

    [/quote]I agree with you on the balsa… I love it! I love the way it works with the five and 3.5 µm paste.I wonder if I should try it on other grits such as the 14 and 10 µm

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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