Finding the factory grind angle

[Rick Richardson]

First off, I’m new to this forum and to the WE products – about 2 weeks or less

I have only had my WEPS for less than two weeks but have taken three really fine folders to a nice mirror edge that shave like straight razors now. I got the Pro Pack 1 with balsa 5/3.5 strops at first but a week later added the 1200/1600 ultras and another set of leather strops with .50/.25 spray.

The results are outstanding.

But I wanted to throw out this idea I tried yesterday while mirror edging my Zero Tolerance 0561 that seems to work really well but I have not repeated it yet.

I had this epiphany when starting to locate the factory grind angle. I always start with a high setting and go down from there in a trial and error manner after using the Sharpie on my edges but this time I decided I would just lay the bare rod onto the edge and I found that seeing the match of the angle was MUCH easier with the naked eye that way and in fact, I was able to find the right edge angle on my ZT 0561 the first time using only my naked eye. The sharpie was being fully removed exactly where it should have been the very first try with a paddle.

Is this a commom technique or did I stumble onto something here? It’s really easy to see how the bare rod lies aganist the existing edge.

Thanks,

Rick

[Josh]

Congrats on getting your WEPS and getting on here man! Welcome 🙂 We love any tips or scientific data we can muster up.

Never tried that before… but I can’t see as it would work. The reason why is because even when I switch from the ceramics to my chosera’s there is a 2-3 degree angle difference. when you throw the width of half the paddle (i.e. the difference between the bare rod and the surface where the stone actually meets the edge) you have to be talking about a 10-15 degree difference I would imagine. But if you have figured it out, go with it!

I normally re-profile all my edges anyway to 20-21* and then use an angle cube. Works great! If I want to match the angle, then I will start the opposite of what you do w/ a really high grit… I start at a low angle and work my way up. Either way it works though.

[Mark76]

Hi Rick,

Welcome to the forums! I hope you’ll find a lot of information here and if not, please ask. People are more than happy to help.

I’d never played with the idea you describe. But the human eye is very good at seeing some things, like whether a line is straight or parallel perpendicular to some other line. So I can imagine it work. Though I do have the same question as John (razoredgeknives).

I sometime use a goniometer to measure the angle of an existing edge. Less work, and works very well, but does cost a bit of money. I have already reprofiled my ZT0560, but I think the original edge was around 20 degrees per side.

Enjoy your WEPS!

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Rick Richardson]

Thanks, guys!

What do I do when it seems like the left side of the blade has a lower angle that the right side. The edge bevel always seems wider on the left that the right. It may be as much as a full degree. I was going to test that with my BK11 to see if setting the left rod a degree higher will even them out.

Thanks!

[Mark76]

Hi Rick, this is a common question, so here are some links you might find useful:

• Full flat ground blades
• Clamping blades
• Using an angle cube
• Linkage play

Success!

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Rick Richardson]

Thanks!

[Tim Budzynski]

Hey, reading my mind.

I sharpen mostly Japanese kitchen knives and acurate grind angles are the main reason I picked the WE. Every blade I have is asymmetrical and I note the angles the manufacture put on the blade when new, even if I am thinning the blade. What I don’t have is the original angles on my older knives.

My question is- Has anyone compiled a list of original factory specs for kitchen knives?

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