Advanced Search

Diamond Stone Break-in Suggestion

Recent Forums Main Forum Techniques and Sharpening Strategies Abrasives Diamond Stone Break-in Suggestion

Viewing 2 posts - 16 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Author
  • #42072
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    graphite, Some of us, I know, me in particular, are very precise and O. C. and do an awful lot of thinking and problem solving while sharpening knives.  I have labeled my stone pairs with a sharpie, “A” and “B” with one end also labeled “1” the other end “2” to know which one I’m using and to give me a reference for orientation, which end is up.  That way I can keep track and continuously switch them around to try to ensure even wear on my stones.  When I use a stone pair I place them back in stone holder rack in the opposite orientation, switching right for left, (A for B) of how I’ve removed them from the angle guide rods and flipping them end for end, (1 for 2).  When I use the stone pair again I place them on the rods in the same orientation as they come off the rack. Right rack peg to right guide rod and up side up on the guide rod.  Then when finished, as I said I flip them for the next time I use them, as I place them back in the rack.  Employing this method rotates my stones for each time I use them.

    I utilize a riser block under my vice to raise it up and have longer guide rods to allow for use of the full length of the stone.  I use a stone stop on the top and the bottom placed so the stone motion is limited to it’s maximize full length of the stone to within 1/8″ from either end.  I also use plastic safety shields on stones to prevent mishaps while sharpeing.  It’s up to me and my technique to utilize the full range of motion on the stones, from stop to stop, to insure I’m using as much of the stones abrasives plate as I can.


    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    • Topics: 37
    • Replies: 2030

    I added a 3/4″ ABS spacer under the vise of my Gen 3 Pro (2017) and upgraded to 12″ rods to get some of that length of stroke back.  I also shortened the rod-end couplings (the spherical joints) by about 1/2″.  The rods only need about three turns of the thread to hold them securely.   I bottom-out the rod threads in the coupling to lock the threads so I can delete the jam nut.  Finger-tight is good enough.   If you’re concerned about the exposed threads on the rods, you can cut off all but four or five turns of thread.  You don’t lose enough rod length to notice the difference.

    Most of the knives I do are pretty short –  folders with less than 3.5″ blades – and the changes make quite a difference.  With longer blades (think kitchen knives) the swing of the rods will allow you to use most of the stone face.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
Viewing 2 posts - 16 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.