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Creating/Chasing a Burr

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  • #1359
    Jon Sterrett
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 8

    Hello everyone, I just received the WE as a Christmas gift, and it seems pretty awesome. However, I cannot for the life of me raise a burr! I start with the 100 grit paddles, and work my way up. I would think that by the time I reach the 1000 grit paddles that I should be able to slice through paper fairly easily, however, this is not the case.
    I’ve spent a significant amount of time on the 100 grit and never get a burr. I’m talking 100+ strokes per side (using alternating strokes, the picking on one side at a time). I’ve had this problem with 4 chef knives; 3 cheapies and a Kikuichi TKC (not a cheapie). I just seem to grind metal away without ever producing a burr. Prior to the WE purchase I’ve had significant experience sharpening on normal stones, and have never had a problem raising a burr and achieving a paper-melting edge with the aforementioned knives.

    Any ideas as to why the heck this is happening?

    #1360
    Jende Industries
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 342

    Hey Jon!

    I think there are several possible answers to your current situation. The first is that you are new to the WEPS. I have years of experience with several sharpening devices, belt grinders, and a ton of different stones, including several makes of diamond plates, and it took me “too long” for my first couple of knives because I needed to build the muscle memory.

    But I was able to raise a burr with ease from the start….

    Which brings us to the second possibility – strokes. If you are alternating strokes, you will not get a burr (at least not a honking big burr) because each alternating stroke cancels out burr buildup. Sweeping strokes, are slower for metal removal and are better once you have established the desired geometry. Try using “scrubbing” strokes, which are up and down strokes, on one side of the knife only. Do this until you get a burr on the opposite side of the knife you are scrubbing, then switch to scrubbing the other side until a burr forms along the entire length of the knife. Then switch to sweeping strokes on one side until a burr forms to even out the bevel’s thickness. Finally, do alternating strokes create a perfect bevel with little to no burr.

    I usually scrub then sweep on all four stock WEPS Diamond stones just to be sure.

    Then there’s pressure. Heavy pressure can flex the edge – especially on higher grits, but is good for the beginning stages (just be careful not to slip!). Diamonds also tend to create “ruts” in metal, so try mixing scrubbing strokes with a few sweeping strokes to break up the monotony and make stock removal faster. You can even employ circular strokes for the most aggression if you feel confident.

    By the WEPS 600 diamond, you get a very well defined, very usable, aggressive edge that should cut paper, but it won’t be a laser at that refinement level. You can get better results out of the plate if you really lighten up the pressure on the 600 WEPS, and of course once it breaks in, the edge gets better as well.

    Lastly, sometimes it just takes a lot of strokes. There is no hard and fast rule for the number of strokes it takes to get an edge, and if you are coming over from freehand to guided sharpening, there is an added time element for precision.

    Keep at it, and keep asking questions. I’m sure you’ll get it!
    B)

    #1369
    Jon Sterrett
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 8

    I think my problem was that I had it on too extreme of an angle. I had tried to put an 11 degree angle on it :whistle: I now have a nice double bevel of 11/15 haha. I did follow your advice for the 15 degree angle, and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the advice! Now to achieve that mirror edge… come on pay day!

    #1370
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    How on earth did you manage an 11* angle using the WEPS? :unsure:

    With trickery you might be able to get slightly below 15*, but how were you able to get 11*?

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #1371
    Jon Sterrett
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 8

    Pushed the collar (almost) directly against the base and put depth key in the top notch.

    #1372
    Jende Industries
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 342

    You can get down to 11-12 degrees depending on the height of the blade. A nice “5 high cleaver will get you down to about 12” if you butt the arms up against the clamp. With the added blade height, you also won’t hit the clamp. B)

    Now go get that mirror finish!

    #1373
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Now go get that mirror finish!

    😆

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #1384
    Allgonquin
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 51

    I’m late to the thread but I’ll comment that some blades just do not seem to raise a burr very well at all. I’ve probably done about 100 blades so far since I received my WEPS in November. All different types, all different qualities. Mostly kitchen knives but also some Benchmade, ESEE, CRKT, etc.

    I’ve noticed that some steel is extremely soft, yet somehow brittle or flaky. Perhaps just weak or not properly heat treated. While one would think that it would be easy to get the burr with a soft steel, it seems to flake off. On a couple of blades I’ve looked at my Sharpie marks with a 10X loupe and clearly I’m on the edge, but can’t raise a burr I can feel. I’ve tried swiping the stones with a lot of force as well as very light force and everything in between, but no burr or at least no uniform burr. Those edges also tend to chip when I get to the edge, it seems.

    Anyway, don’t give up on the burr, you can get there on _almost_ all blades.

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