Choseras – When They’re Flat but No Longer Squared

[Eating Pie]

HI All.

I have gained a good understand about flattening of stones and texturing of stones after reading Ken’s amazing thread, and the great videos from Jende Industries.

However, I think I’ve run into an issue not covered.

What about when the stones are no longer properly squared? By this I mean, the top of the stone is flat, but no longer parallel to the bottom of the stone (or the paddle it’s mounted upon).

Here’s a few examples in case that’s not clear.

Let’s say I always lap the same way: I always put my palm on the same end of the paddle, and always push harder with my palm on that end. Every time I do, I notice my pencil marks always disappear quicker near my palm, but I still continue lapping until the marks are all gone. I have successfully flattened the stone, but over time the stone is wearing faster on one end than the other… the stone is “ramping”

Other possibilities: let’s say the glue expands a little on one end after mounting, or human error occurs during mounting, or it’s warmer on the north side of the paddle than south… anything. The result: the top of the stone no longer lies parallel to the paddle.

I’m sure just pressing harder on the opposite side when lapping will eventually fix the problem in this case, but it also seems like lots of extra wear has occurred once you’re done.

But is this even a problem at all — assuming I want accurate angles on sharpening? And if so, is there a good way to fix it?

Thanks.

-Pie

[Leo Barr]

You should end for end the stone often whilst lapping and you can also check for symmetry with a vernier calliper you may also be pressing too hard whilst lapping little & often is best.

[Eating Pie]

By “end for end”ing the stone, do you mean 180 the paddle so palm is now pressing on the side fingers held previously? Very good advice for avoiding this issue!

I lap with each use, though from the Ken’s pinned thread (or the texturing thread), I came away with the sense that rubbing stones together helps delay the need for lapping. I am also rubbing or lapping immediately prior to use so I can take advantage of the slurry.

Prevention is absolutely the best, but I have a couple of stones in need of a cure. 🙂

-Pie

[Leo Barr]

Yes do end for end(180˚) and movements should be diagonal so say left to right then right to left then 180˚ etc full size Choseras come with a Nagura stone to raise mud CKTG may well sell them separately http://www.chefknivestogo

[Geocyclist]

Good topic here. For me it raises a good topic. Should you alternate using stones left/right and top/bottom. Meaning track which stone was used on left or right side and also how put on the rod top or bottom. This would insure even wear, like rotating your tires. And account for if one hand is stronger than the other. I would carry this over to lapping too, swap directions each time. By the way I have never done this but have been thinking about it. I can see right hand dominance in my strops.

[Mark76]

Should you alternate using stones left/right and top/bottom. Meaning track which stone was used on left or right side and also how put on the rod top or bottom.

I think the laws of statistics say this is not necessary. If you place your stones at random, in the end every stone will get even wear.

I think the laws of statics also say this won’t work in 1 out of 10,000 cases. Or so. That’s the case where you end up at a wrong place in the variance spectrum.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Eating Pie]

What do you guys think you’d do after the Choseras are already ramped? How do you get them back to being squared (parallel) with the paddles?

I received a couple sets that measures a bit off kilter — they’re dead-on flat after a few minutes on my DMT 9u, but still ramped — and I want to fix them, but am not sure what to do. Nor am I sure what tolerance (error) to expect.

-Pie

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