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Best grit for EDC maxamet

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  • #57638
    Ryan
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 1

    Hey guys, I’m new to the forum and wicked edge and sharpening in general.

    I have had fairly good luck with every knife I’ve sharpened so far but I have one knife thats making me question my technique.  A manix 2 maxamet.

    It was an ebay purchase, it looks like the guy put a large polished convexed edge on it with a microbevel.  I contacted the seller to ask him what sharpening system he used and he replied venev stones.

    The edge was EXTREMELY sticky when when felt with my fingers.  It would blow through multiple layers of paper without a snag, except for one small section of the blade.  It blew right through radiator hoses, pretty much anything I tried cutting. Hands down the sharpest/usable edge I’ve ever felt.  But when I looked at it under my USB scope it was very jagged.  I thought for sure I could make it better with the wicked edge.

    Ive tried a few different progressions and haven’t been able to recreate his edge.  Though it looks much more even under the scope it still doesn’t cut as well.

    15 degrees per side checking every grit with the angle gauge.  I’ve tried 800 then stropping and 400- 1000 and lightly stropping.  Based on my reading maxamet likes a little grit, so I skipped the 2000,2500 and most of the fine diamond compounds.

    I don’t want to keep experimenting without good results and wasting steel.  I have a feeling I’m going to fine for the type of edge I’m seeking….  Do you guys have any favorite progressions for this blade?

     

    Thanks guys

     

     

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    #57641
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2733

    Welcome to the W.E. Forum Ryan.

    Here’s an earlier forum thread for the same Maximet steel in a Spyderco Model knife.  It may help you to read it. It’s several pages.

    Spyderco Native – Maxamet – Wicked Edge Precision Knife Sharpener (wickededgeusa.com)

    Here’s another link to more technically or science based information on this steel.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    • This reply was modified 2 years ago by MarcH.
    #57654
    Ryan
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 1

    Thanks Marc. Based on the first link, it sounds like 800 grit is clay’s preference for this steel.  I tried that for today.  It seemed to work well, but it was not quite the edge that the previous owner put on it by hand.

    Despite what I’ve read about this steel performing better at a lower grit, tonight I brought it up to a polish.  It seems to cut cardboard with less effort, less snags on paper, etc.  I’m going to give it a shot for a few days and see what happens.

    #57659
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    My personal experience is that the steel type is less important than matching the edge type to the material type.  Polished edges move easily through some materials, but seem to slide right over tough or fibrous materials without “biting.”  Serrated edges are the answer for those types of materials, but even the type of serration can make a difference.  A “toothy” edge is a variation of serrations.  We often choose a combination of polished bevels and microbevels of a coarser grit.  Think of them as micro-serrations.  The polished bevel faces reduce friction as the blade moves through the material being cut, while the serrations “rip” through the tough fibers at first contact.

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