Alcohol on the strops….

[cbwx34]

Ok, so I’m a bit stubborn. I know Clay and others have talked about adding alcohol to the leather strops… but I’ve avoided it. I’ve tried to adopt a KISS attitude, and didn’t want to mess with it.

But today, being in the mood to experiment, I did a few knives and sprayed a bit of alcohol on the strops before using. What a difference. One thing I noticed that I hadn’t anticipated, was how “crisp” it left the edge after stropping.

I looked and didn’t see any, has Clay done any microscope photos of edges done with and without alcohol? Wonder if a difference can be seen? Maybe I (or someone) can track down some he’s done both ways and put them up for comparison.

So, I’m sold… for now at least. 😆 Thought I’d see what others think of this… especially if you’ve done it both ways. 🙂

[Phil Pasteur]

Curtis,
I have not done it both ways, but I may have to try. I am always up for something that works better.
I do have a question though. I usually let either pastes or sprays dry very well, often overnight, just to give my strops the feel that I like. That is, a smooth almost frictionless feel on the steel. I feel that this give me more control and I have always liked my results. So the question is, how much additional friction is produced…or how much more do the stops grab the edge…
Now I know that you can’t quantify this easily, but maybe you can describe what you are feeling… kind of.

Phil

[Tom Whittington]

I started using alcohol on the strops after reading Clay’s comments on it as well, and it really does seem to make a major difference in how the strops function. I don’t have a spare spray bottle but dropping a little on with a soaked q-tip works too.

The feel definitely changes dramatically, to more of a grabby “stiction” as Clay has taken to calling it. It takes some adjusting to work with the strops when they’re “sticky” like that, but the results are very nice! I used the dry strops and got used to the smooth feel across the bevel as well, but have started to adjust to using the alcohol on the strops more now. I wonder if doing half of your stropping strokes dry, then finishing up with the alcohol would be an effective tactic?

[Mark76]

Interesting… Do you use the strops while they’re still wet or do you let the alcohol dry first? And have you tried this with plain water? Does it make a difference?

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Geocyclist]

I use alcohol and can tell big difference vs not. I have not tried water. I wet a paper towel with alcohol, pat the stops so I can just barely tell the color of the leather changes, so just damp, not soaking. I use the same towel to wipe the blade. Fold the towel over for the next strop and repeat. I understand the KISS principle, but since I wipe the blade with alcohol anyway, this process doesn’t add much work.

I tried a spray bottle and didn’t like it. Point blank range was too much alcohol, and backed off got it on whatever was behind the stone. (Not good for the table top).

I have also read that alcohol is used to clean to strops, a lot of it with a brush. It is interesting that the same substance that improves the performance also is used to clean it. :woohoo:

[Derek Williams]

Hello,

After a quick search on this subject i see references to both “denatured” and “rubbing” alcohol”. Should rubbing or denatured alcohol be used as they have many similar properties?

Thank you,
Derek

[cbwx34]

I just give them a quick “mist” spray, so they don’t get very wet. I used them as soon as I sprayed them. They do had a bit of “grab”, but I didn’t think much of it, in fact, I didn’t pay attention until Phil asked, so I went back and tried one side wet, one side dry. I also noticed it didn’t take long to dry, and feel pretty much like the dry side I tested.

Haven’t tried water.

[cbwx34]

Hello,

After a quick search on this subject i see references to both “denatured” and “rubbing” alcohol”. Should rubbing or denatured alcohol be used as they have many similar properties?

Thank you,
Derek

Welcome to the forum!

I was using 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

[Phil Pasteur]

I use alcohol and can tell big difference vs not. I have not tried water. I wet a paper towel with alcohol, pat the stops so I can just barely tell the color of the leather changes, so just damp, not soaking. I use the same towel to wipe the blade. Fold the towel over for the next strop and repeat.

What kind of a “big difference” have you seen…exactly?
Saying a big difference with no qualifiers leaves me wondering whether you even like the difference… and what it does for you.
How many knives have you done with and without… alcohol??
Just trying to get a handle on what specifically you mean and the frame of reference.

Phil

[Phil Pasteur]

I started using alcohol on the strops after reading Clay’s comments on it as well, and it really does seem to make a major difference in how the strops function. I don’t have a spare spray bottle but dropping a little on with a soaked q-tip works too.

The feel definitely changes dramatically, to more of a grabby “stiction” as Clay has taken to calling it. It takes some adjusting to work with the strops when they’re “sticky” like that, but the results are very nice!

Same question I asked Geo, Can you be a bit more specific in what you see?

BTW,
here is the definition of “stiction”:

Definition of STICTION
the force required to cause one body in contact with another to begin to move .

Stiction is the static friction that needs to be overcome to enable relative motion of stationary objects in contact.[1] The term is a portmanteau of the term “static friction”,[2] perhaps also influenced by the verb “stick”.

Any solid objects pressing against each other (but not sliding) will require some threshold of force parallel to the surface of contact in order to overcome static cohesion. Stiction is a threshold, not a continuous force.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiction

Maybe the coeficient of sliding friction changes due to the moisture…and before the alcohol evaporates?
Still would like to know about the observed differences in specific.

Phil

[Phil Pasteur]

I just give them a quick “mist” spray, so they don’t get very wet. I used them as soon as I sprayed them. They do had a bit of “grab”, but I didn’t think much of it, in fact, I didn’t pay attention until Phil asked, so I went back and tried one side wet, one side dry. I also noticed it didn’t take long to dry, and feel pretty much like the dry side I tested.

Haven’t tried water.

One other thing that is probably important…
What is on the strops that you folks are using with the alcohol…
I bet that makes a difference in what happens…. My diamond sprays likely will not act the same as the pastes…

Curtis, thanks for checking the feel for me… I guess it only changes while they are actually “wet”, right?

Phil

[cbwx34]

I tried it with the WE diamond pastes.

I’d say just give it a try… I don’t see any long term effect if you don’t like it. You’re right, they seem to return to “normal” when they dry. (Of course it’s only been a day). 🙂

[Phil Pasteur]

Curtis,
Yes you are right, and I will try it.
Just trying to get a handle on what other folks are seeing.
Makes me very curious when folks talk about significant differences but don’t say what the difference(s) is/are
Was…still am, up all night trying to fix my mail server.
No doubt babblig… in text, a bit.

Phil

[Tom Whittington]

It’s definitely not easy to describe, but as Curtis mentioned there doesn’t seem to be any lasting downside to trying it out. The strops dry out normally, and will actually dry pretty fast even while using it so for blades you’re putting extra polish on you might need to re-apply a little.

I’m wondering the same thing as you, Phil… does the damp strop increase friction and boost the “smearing” effect we’ve seen with Clay’s microscope images? That seems to be the most logical conclusion without delving into it on the microscope level.

I’m using the Pro Pack WEPS pastes on leather, and this reminds me to recharge my strops sometime soon too!

[Geocyclist]

Phil,

I have only used WE diamond pastes on both balsa and leather, mostly leather.

I have done 3-5 knives without, and 10+ with.

By big difference I mean:

Leather – can feel immediately much more grab on the strop. I have had the base come off the table (just 1 corner) twice. And I am not trying to do this.

Balsa – strange, first 2 strokes each side make it even more slippery, like fresh paste or like stopping with ice, then after 2 stokes they grab almost like the leather does.

As far as results I can’t say much or quantify other than to say I get the same results with fewer strokes than without alcohol. I also notice the affect does not last for ever, but at least 20-30 strokes per side, then I am close to moving on anyway.

Before I got my WE I read about how Clay got the base come up during stopping. I didn’t believe it. When I got my WE I still didn’t believe it when stopping without alcohol. After the base lifted the first time I understood. I do not want the base to come up, and I am trying to use moderate pressure, the grip is just that strong (at least while the alcohol is still fresh).

Like I said before, it doesn’t add much to my work flow since I already use it for cleaning. I can’t tell it is damaging the strops, the affect is positive, or at least reduces stopping time.

Since I started using it I have not stopped. I think there is a real effect here. That being said I don’t know if it helped, or just that my strops are now “seasoned” and the seasoned strops produce the additional grip? I will have to try it now without to see. I have read once about Clay talking about stops getting “seasoned” but not much else.

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