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What should I be doing to clean my WEPS stones?

Recent Forums Main Forum Sharpener and Accessory Maintenance What should I be doing to clean my WEPS stones?

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  • #3794
    John Holbrook
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 7

    I have the WEPS system, along with new micro fine ceramics.

    Should the stones be cleaned? If so, how often? I’ve read in this forum that rust could be a problem if water is used to clean the stones?

    #3795
    Dennis Hibar
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 99

    From what I’ve read, lots of different methods are used. I have been cleaning my diamond stones with water, a tooth brush and a small amount of cleanser. Have done this maybe 6 times, thus far. I pat them dry with a towel then let them air dry before putting them back in my storage trays. No sign of rust so far. For the ceramics, I had been doing the same, but am now following Clay’s method of using a soft eraser.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #3796
    John Holbrook
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 7

    From what I’ve read, lots of different methods are used. I have been cleaning my diamond stones with water, a tooth brush and a small amount of cleanser. Have done this maybe 6 times, thus far. I pat them dry with a towel then let them air dry before putting them back in my storage trays. No sign of rust so far. For the ceramics, I had been doing the same, but am now following Clay’s method of using a soft eraser.

    Is there a link which further elaborates on Clay’s use of a soft eraser for the ceramics?

    #3797
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Very good question. And I am still not sure of the best way myself.

    I usually clean the diamond stones using liberal amounts of water and a toothbrush. I have read the mail on rust as well, but to be honest, that was the only report I have read of it. I have not experienced it myself. In fact, I often put my diamond stones in the dish washer and they hold up well. (Wicked Edge use a pretty strong glue – 3M tape – for holding the plates. Many other glues would not stand the temperatures of a dish washer. But please only do this at your own risk.) I usually clean the stones after 5-10 sharpening sessions, although I suspect that is far too often.

    I have never been able to clean the ceramic stones properly. I use Ajax with a toothbrush, but it doesn’t work really well. On other forums people recommend Bartender’s stuff (not sure of the exact name, they don’t sell it where I live). Apparently this works well because it has oxalic acid as an active compound. I suspect acids work well because they help corrode metal filings left in the stones. And I’m still looking for acids that work well…

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #3798
    John Holbrook
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 7

    Thanks guys – it sounds like getting them wet is a non-isssue. Much appreciate the responses. Any other cleaning tips will be appreciated!

    #3809
    Kennith Chan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 41

    Well I have not tried but I would think normal swimming pool acid should work to help clean the ceramic stones. The pool acid is Hydrochloric acid (HCl). You do get them in different strengths and of course with any chemicals wear gloves. Do NOT get the HydroFLOURIC acid (HF), as that is VERY VERY dangerous.

    Also I think the ones that they sell to clean the steam cleaners could also work. Even vinegar might do the trick. Vinegar is also acidic.

    #3811
    BassLake Dan
    Participant
    • Topics: 11
    • Replies: 110

    Well I have not tried but I would think normal swimming pool acid should work to help clean the ceramic stones. The pool acid is Hydrochloric acid (HCl). You do get them in different strengths and of course with any chemicals wear gloves. Do NOT get the HydroFLOURIC acid (HF), as that is VERY VERY dangerous.

    Also I think the ones that they sell to clean the steam cleaners could also work. Even vinegar might do the trick. Vinegar is also acidic.

    what you want is H2SO4 which is an oxidizer. HCl is not.. Acetic acid (C2H4O2) will work but slowly.. the reaction you want is oxidization reduction of the iron. Its all very dangerous on the garage / hobby level, and best to just forget the whole thing. sorry I ever mentioned it in the first place.

    #3812
    Kennith Chan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 41

    Yep H2SO4 in it’s concentrated form can be bad, cos when you add it to water it can get very hot and or “splash/jump” out. H2SO4 can be found in car batteries and if you have ever got that on your clothes you can kiss those good bye. Always add acid to water while stirring the water. This helps to prevents the hydrophilic “jumping out” of H2SO4. I agree 100% not for the hobby/garage level.

    Try vinegar 1st as that is prob the safest.

    #3813
    BassLake Dan
    Participant
    • Topics: 11
    • Replies: 110

    .. I agree 100% not for the hobby/garage level.

    Try vinegar 1st as that is prob the safest.

    I agree, vinegar, Acetic acid (C2H4O2) will work but slowly.. I tried to edit my last post , but i see not in time. I tried Distilled white vinegar once, but it took 36 hrs in a hot crock pot, so not real practical..

    #3814
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I just used Soft Scrub spray foam on the Micro-Fine ceramics and it worked well. I haven’t tried with the Superfine stones.

    -Clay

    #3815
    Kennith Chan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 41

    Yep, Hydrochloric Acid (HCL) could do the job a little faster than vinegar, as it will dissolve the iron off the ceramics, is easier to get hold of and way safer than H2SO4.

    Wiki Same acid as in our stomachs and used in pickling steel.

    Safety glasses and rubber/latex gloves to be safe.

    Just thought about it … Coca-cola has phosphoric acid in it and that could also work as the metal in the ceramics is very fine.

    #3821
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    On other forums people recommend Bartender’s stuff…

    It’s Barkeepers friend… http://www.barkeepersfriend.com I use it… works really well.

    BTW, I don’t think anyone’s mentioned leather… a waterless non abrasive hand cleaner with a conditioner like lanolin or aloe vera does a great job of cleaning and revitalizing leather. Haven’t done the WE strops yet… but have done some full size strops, and they come out as good as new. Just make sure it’s non abrasive.

    cbw

    #3822
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Try vinegar 1st as that is prob the safest.

    Sure, it’ll definitely be the safest. However, most knives I sharpen are made of stainless steel. And these knives withstand vinegar quite nicely.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #3825
    Kennith Chan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 41

    As BLD said Vinegar takes forever at elevated temperatures.

    Below are a couple of Youtube videos where you can see the effect on different grades.

    Hydrochloric Acid
    Sulphuric Acid

    #6550
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Thought I might add M0DiFiEDZ recent video here.

    “How To Clean Your Stones With A Cheap $50 Ultrasonic Cleaner”

    Does it look to be the best option out there?

    2 users thanked author for this post.
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