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Linkage play–your technique for consistency?

Recent Forums Main Forum Techniques and Sharpening Strategies Linkage play–your technique for consistency?

Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 105 total)
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  • #3321
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Even the straws from Subway in the Netherlands fit the rods perfectly 😆 . But if they don’t, cutting them open may help.

    However, the Subway straws fit the stones less perfectly. What I mean is that the stones could not move on the rods easily anymore. I guess you need some play for the stones to move freely on the rods.

    Everyone their own taste! (“Mustard, mayonnaise, buffalo or vinaigrette, sir?” 😉 )

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #3323
    Anthony Yan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 96

    Hmm…. Not sure if my previous advice is completely sound. Some materials, such as rubber or heat-shrink tubing actually contract when heated. Since I don’t know what type of plastic goes into straws, I don’t know how they would respond to heat.

    If the straw is too thick, and the paddle wont slide on it, then you might try something thinner. One possiblity is clear-tape. Clear tape usually has a fairly smooth and slippery surface. You could stick a line of tape to the rod, and see if that works. Probably, clear tape is thinner than a McDonalds’ straw.

    The only downside is that the tape could leave a glue residue if you needed to remove/replace it. To remove the residue, you could use a solvent such as acetone. btw, do not use solvent on the paddles at all; acetone can soften or dissolve plastic. However, it should be just fine to use solvent on the metal rods.

    If you don’t want to use solvent, you can use new clear-tape and repeated stick new tape on and peel it off; the old glue on the rod will stick at least partially to the new tape, and will peel off with it. At least, a little bit will peel off each time, so you need to do it repeatedly. This is an old trick my mother taught me for removing residual glue left from stickers on jars.

    There is such a thing as Removable Scotch Tape. I suppose you could try that if you’re concerned about the glue residue. It may not be as thick or smooth as clear-tape, so probably should experiment with it first.
    http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Removable-Tape-Inches-224/dp/B001GXD2S2

    Anyways, just my random thoughts about it. If you try any of these, or other ideas, let us know how it goes.

    Sincerely,
    –Lagrangian
    —————————————————
    “What grit sharpens the mind?”–Zen Sharpening Koan

    I wonder if you could heat the straws to make them expand slightly, and then slide them over the rods with a little WD-40 or something.

    I have not tried this. But if you do, do not melt the straws! You don’t want that, as the straw will then deform and change thickness in uncontrolled ways. You want warm, but not melted. Maybe warm/hot tap water on the straws?

    Sorry, just a random suggestion. I thought of this because of two things:

    (1) When a jar cap was hard to open, my mother would heat it under hot water from the tap. The lid would expand, and it would be easier to open. I don’t know if this is because the cap heated more than the glass and/or the coefficient of expansion for metal is much larger than glass. The latter is true, the former is probably true too, but I’m not sure.

    (2) In metal-work, there are extremely tight and nearly-permanent friction-fit parts. These are done by heating one part (say a precision hole) to make it thermally expand just enough enough for another part to fit (say an axel). After the two parts are joined, they let the hot part cool down to normal temperature, and by thermal-contraction it super-tightly squeezes the other piece. This is only a friction fit, but it can be so exceptionally tight that it is effectively a solid-join. In some machines, such a join is even used to transmit mechanical power.

    Sincerely,
    –Lagrangian

    #3332
    Steven Pinson
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 49

    Hey All,

    Just a quick shot of my solution to the “Slippery Pete” problem on the guide rods. FYI

    http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/SPIN1963/DSCN0123.jpg

    Attachments:
    #3333
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    What is the part that looks like a washer at the bottom of the rod for?
    Possibly to keep contamination out of the joint?

    Phil

    #3338
    Steven Pinson
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 49

    Hey Phil,

    Not sure if the question was directed at my post/pict but here is an answer to the question:

    The washer at the bottom of the (rod mounting) joint is to take up the slop in the rod to prevent (as much as possible) the movement in the “Y” axis and inhibit the pitch of the stone as it travels across the arc plane. I really do not worry about contamination because I clean the joint(s) after every two or three uses with a little alcohol. I then re oil the joint with just a drop of a light oil (Tri Flow or shell Rotella).

    #3339
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Steven,
    Yes it was your post. I see the washers mounted on either side of the pin through the bottom of the rod to take up slop. This is similar to what was done with the modified rods that I got from Clay. The piece I was talking about … from what I can see in the pic looks like a fiber washer that the rod itself goes through. The thing that is below the zip tie on the rod just above the flat part of the rod. It is brown in color and looks like you just slid it down over the rod and then put a zip tie above it to hold the straw.

    Not sure why I am having difficulty describing it, but maybe you understand from this..

    Phil

    #3348
    Steven Pinson
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 49

    Hey Phil,

    Ah! The rubber washer. I put it there so when I fumble the stone it drops onto the washer and does not damage the stone. I guess it does shield the joint a little as well. I got them at Sears.

    #3356
    Kennith Chan
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 41

    I know this is a vastly inferior product but I thought the nylon bushing or the way it is held maybe you can use a similar method to hold the end rod bearing. Check out 2 min 30 secs. for how the bushing is held

    Video

    #3372
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    I have a question for the group, though I swear it has been posted somewhere on the forums before, I can’t find it.
    What is the proper size replacent screw for the base of the rod assembly where it slide on the square part with degree markings.

    I took the original over to Home depot and could not get it to thread into any of their gauges. 10X32 and the M5 .8 were the closest. I brought both home and the metric one seems to fit the best. That doesn’t seem right. The 10X32 also fit, but seem pretty loose.

    Anyway … does anyone kno what I *should* be using??

    Tanks,
    Phil

    #3373
    Dennis Hibar
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 99

    10-32s work well for me. Don’t seem loose to me and hold quite securely with very little force.

    #3376
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Thanks.
    Both sets of screws that I bought work. Both when screwed in partialy have a bunch of slop axially in any direction until they are snug. But, they work OK with minimal pressure. They just don’t thread in properly.

    I figured out a work around. I have two sets of arms. One stock and one that the nice folks at WEPS modded for me. I took one set of the knurled screws and just filed the ends flat. I ran them into a 10 X 32 die to make the starting threads good. That is it. Original screws that work for fine adjustments.
    I can tighten them by hand, and the adjustment is not going anywhere. Much better than using the pointed screws on the back side of the square adjustment bar… and, I don’t have to reach over the device to tightens them. For some reason, still would like to know why, they thread in much better, with less slop, than either of the hardware store replacements.

    Clay, when you have time, can you confirm the actual size and thread of the original screws??

    I have the hex cap screws if I need them later.

    Again,
    Thanks for the reply !!!

    Phil

    #3548
    Jerry Stephenson
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 15

    I have a milling machine so I made new arms out of 1/4″ drill rod. Fits much more snugly into the stones which are about .255 ID. The arms that came with the machine are .235 or so. I machined the width of the bottom tongue to fit very snugly into the u-joint and eliminated just about all the movement. Took me about an hour using a collet block to get the faces parallel.

    –Jerry

    #3549
    Jerry Stephenson
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 15

    PS I reused the pins. No need for machine screws. –Jerry

    #7579
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Just thought I would bump this thread as cbwx34 thinks this was never an issue and I am only one of a few with this problem.

    Interesting to see the straws and the ball joint ideas were conceived in this thread also.
    http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=6&id=1888&limit=10&limitstart=60&Itemid=63#2350

    #7580
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    Hey Chris…

    I didn’t say that at all, and don’t appreciate being taken out of context.

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