Fixing uneven bevels
- This topic has 17 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 08/19/2017 at 2:35 pm by
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I think that you are correct that a courser stone gets you there faster. For a knife that needs a boat load of metal removed the 50/80 grit stones remove that metal much much quicker, but the deeper the scratches the more metal that has to be removed to get the complete scratch out completely and those scratches when you draw a burr with them go from the bottom of the bevel all the way through the edge so the smaller the initial scratches are at the apex when you draw the first burr the less metal that has to be removed overall even though it might take a little more time. This is why I only use them when I need to remove a lot of metal and then I don’t go all the way to an apex. That way I don’t put those deep scratches in the cutting edge and in turn don’t take the metal down any further than is necessary. I used to draw a burr with the 100 stones but now I try not to draw the burr until I get to the 200 grit stones on a re profile. There are some seasoned WE users that don’t draw a burr until 400 or 600. The finer the stone the less pronounce the burr will be so try drawing the burr with the 100 or 200 and then see how that works for you. Good sharing with you!
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This is getting off the subject of the original post’s subject, but it fits in with the present discussion. I don’t chose a grit determined by the amount of steel I think I need to remove. That is, more steel has to go so start with a coarser grit. I choose the grit based on the results I’m getting working on that steel. The hardness of the steel is more a determiner of the grit I use than the amount of metal I have to remove. I start most knives, including a reprofile at usually 500 grit whetstones or 400 grit if using diamond stones. (Touch-ups I try to start at 1000 grit.) I’m attempting to make as fine and shallow a scratch pattern as I can while removing steel and still get good results. I’m reshaping or reprofiling the knife by removing thin layers of metal across the knife where needed. This is compared to cutting or scratching a deep groove with the lower coarser grits, then having to remove all the metal surrounding it to get even to the depth of the groove with subsequent finer/higher grits.
I work with this grit choice for awhile to gauge the progress I’m making. If I’m working too hard, that is having to apply too much pressure and having to use too many strokes then I step down to the next lower grit and continue from there. If I find that’s working I’m good to go. If I find again, I’m working too hard, I step down again to the next lower grit. So my grit choice is the result of a subjective decision not a plan from the onset.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)
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